From Cafés to Pride: My Emotional Tapestry in Tbilisi

By Danny DeVegan III

Before We Dive in

Georgia, including its capital Tbilisi, has a complex relationship with LGBTQ+ rights. While homosexuality is legal and anti-discrimination laws exist, the country is still very conservative in many respects, and social attitudes towards LGBTQ+ individuals can be less than welcoming. Public displays of affection between same-sex couples can attract unwanted attention and may even put you at risk of verbal or physical harassment. Pride events have faced significant opposition and have been the target of protests.

It’s crucial to research the most current information and be cautious if you’re planning to visit Tbilisi as an LGBTQ+ individual. Given your advocacy for LGBTQ+ rights, this is an aspect of Tbilisi that you may find particularly significant, both emotionally and politically.

As always, when traveling, especially to countries with less progressive attitudes towards LGBTQ+ rights, exercise caution, be aware of local laws and customs, and consider reaching out to local LGBTQ+ organizations for advice and support.

Day 1: Arrival in Tbilisi, Georgia

Stepping off the plane at Tbilisi International Airport, I’m greeted by the invigorating scent of a land that’s both ancient and new. A quick drive takes me to Fabrika Hostel, an edgy accommodation tucked away in an old Soviet sewing factory. My room is minimalist yet welcoming, an unassuming canvas where I can sketch my Georgian adventure.

Tbilisi entices me as a place with deep cultural heritage, yet open to progressive ideas. A city that boasts a rich culinary scene, and as a vegan, I’m thrilled to explore its plant-based offerings. More importantly, it is a place emerging as a more inclusive destination, resonating with my role as an LGBTQ+ advocate.

Looking out my window, I see a skyline peppered with buildings both modern and ancient, a visual symphony of Tbilisi’s complex history. As the sun sets, washing the city in golden light, I sense a world of experiences waiting to be uncovered.

Day 2: The Soul of Art

I wake up with the city. An early morning visit takes me to Kiwi Vegan Café, where the coffee comes with a splash of almond milk and a conversation about the local vegan scene. This café emanates an aura of community, where individual choices towards sustainability are celebrated.

My artistic inclinations lead me to the Georgian Museum of Fine Arts. It’s astonishing to witness the blend of traditional and contemporary works, each carrying the soul of Georgia. The presence of several queer artists catches my eye, subtly indicating a shift towards inclusivity.

By evening, I attend an event at Success Bar, one of Tbilisi’s LGBTQ+ friendly spots. It’s Drag Bingo Night, and the room is buzzing with an atmosphere that can only be described as exhilaratingly Georgian. The community here is courageous, and their stories of resilience deeply touch my heart.

Day 3: Urban Adventures

My third day takes me to the Dry Bridge Market. It’s a playground for thrift lovers like myself. The market offers everything from Soviet-era trinkets to hand-knitted scarves, perfect for my frugal travel sensibilities. Each vendor I interact with tells a story, and I can’t help but appreciate the authenticity that radiates from this space.

From there, I make my way to Plantopia, another gem in Tbilisi’s vegan culinary scene. Their walnut-stuffed eggplant rolls offer a harmonious blend of local flavors and vegan sensibilities. Just as I find back home in the Netherlands, there’s a comforting sense of unity in embracing diverse culinary practices.

As the evening settles, I find myself at Fabrika’s courtyard, a communal space where locals and travelers intersect. Artists, digital nomads, and advocates of all stripes create a mosaic of modern Tbilisi culture. Here, I sketch a one-line drawing of the courtyard—a simple yet intricate illustration, much like the city itself.

Day 4: Nature’s Embrace

The call for some nature is irrefutable, so I take a day trip to the Tbilisi Botanical Garden. It’s a lush sanctuary where each tree feels like a silent guardian of the city’s history. The serene paths and terraces could easily belong in a painting, and they remind me of the quaint landscapes of the Netherlands, albeit with a unique Georgian twist.

Before leaving the garden, I find a quiet spot to read some poetry. Words become another means of understanding this land, and as I flip through pages, I realize how universally shared emotions can be.

The day concludes at the Gardenia Shevardnadze, a plant haven with an attached café. I sip on herbal tea, surrounded by a plethora of flora. Much like how I love unwinding back in Hamburg with Hans and Billy, this is my peaceful recess in Tbilisi.

Day 4 allows me to breathe, quite literally. It’s a day less about conquering places and more about letting the essence of Tbilisi wash over me. Like a soft pastel painting, it’s the subtle undertones that often carry the most weight.

Day 5: Human Connections

Today, I spend some time volunteering at Tbilisi Pride, an LGBTQ+ organization aiming to shift the needle towards equality in Georgia. It’s empowering to be surrounded by passionate advocates who share my urgency for positive change.

In the evening, I join a local poetry reading session at Art-Café Home. There, a poem about longing and separation stirs my emotions. It reminds me of the gaps between my reunions with my partner Hans and our dog Billy, and how those absences make our time together even more significant.

Tbilisi, you’ve been a poem written in multiple verses, each one etching a permanent mark on my soul.

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Closing Thoughts

Tbilisi didn’t just meet my expectations; it layered them with complexities I had yet to anticipate. Here, I found a vibrant tapestry of experiences that speak to different aspects of who I am: the artist, the wanderer, the advocate, and the ever-curious explorer.

In this city, I found a resonance that lingers, much like the deep notes of a bass in a Georgian choir. And it’s this emotional journey, with all its highs and lows, that I’ll carry with me as I continue to explore the road less traveled.

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