{"id":200574,"date":"2019-02-08T11:07:07","date_gmt":"2019-02-08T16:07:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/zmanmekomi.com\/?p=200574"},"modified":"2023-09-20T16:40:25","modified_gmt":"2023-09-20T13:40:25","slug":"a-personal-travel-guide-to-israel-jerusalem-the-holy-city","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zmanmekomi.com\/en\/a-personal-travel-guide-to-israel-jerusalem-the-holy-city\/","title":{"rendered":"A Personal Travel Guide To Israel: Jerusalem &#8211; The Holy City"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>By Douglas E. Duckett<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div id=\"ez-toc-container\" class=\"ez-toc-v2_0_82_2 counter-hierarchy ez-toc-counter ez-toc-light-blue ez-toc-container-direction\">\n<div class=\"ez-toc-title-container\">\n<p class=\"ez-toc-title\" style=\"cursor:inherit\">Table of Contents<\/p>\n<span class=\"ez-toc-title-toggle\"><a href=\"#\" class=\"ez-toc-pull-right ez-toc-btn ez-toc-btn-xs ez-toc-btn-default ez-toc-toggle\" aria-label=\"Toggle Table of Content\"><span class=\"ez-toc-js-icon-con\"><span class=\"\"><span class=\"eztoc-hide\" style=\"display:none;\">Toggle<\/span><span class=\"ez-toc-icon-toggle-span\"><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" class=\"list-377408\" width=\"20px\" height=\"20px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" fill=\"none\"><path d=\"M6 6H4v2h2V6zm14 0H8v2h12V6zM4 11h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2zM4 16h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2z\" fill=\"currentColor\"><\/path><\/svg><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" class=\"arrow-unsorted-368013\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"10px\" height=\"10px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" version=\"1.2\" baseProfile=\"tiny\"><path d=\"M18.2 9.3l-6.2-6.3-6.2 6.3c-.2.2-.3.4-.3.7s.1.5.3.7c.2.2.4.3.7.3h11c.3 0 .5-.1.7-.3.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7zM5.8 14.7l6.2 6.3 6.2-6.3c.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7c-.2-.2-.4-.3-.7-.3h-11c-.3 0-.5.1-.7.3-.2.2-.3.5-.3.7s.1.5.3.7z\"\/><\/svg><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<nav><ul class='ez-toc-list ez-toc-list-level-1 ' ><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-1\" href=\"https:\/\/zmanmekomi.com\/en\/a-personal-travel-guide-to-israel-jerusalem-the-holy-city\/#Jerusalem%E2%80%94The_Holy_City_Suggested_Time_6_to_7_nights\" >Jerusalem\u2014The Holy City\u00a0Suggested Time: \u00a06 to 7 nights<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-2\" href=\"https:\/\/zmanmekomi.com\/en\/a-personal-travel-guide-to-israel-jerusalem-the-holy-city\/#Days_One_and_Two\" >Days One and Two<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-3\" href=\"https:\/\/zmanmekomi.com\/en\/a-personal-travel-guide-to-israel-jerusalem-the-holy-city\/#Day_Three\" >Day Three<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-4\" href=\"https:\/\/zmanmekomi.com\/en\/a-personal-travel-guide-to-israel-jerusalem-the-holy-city\/#Day_Four\" >Day Four<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-5\" href=\"https:\/\/zmanmekomi.com\/en\/a-personal-travel-guide-to-israel-jerusalem-the-holy-city\/#Day_Five\" >Day Five<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-6\" href=\"https:\/\/zmanmekomi.com\/en\/a-personal-travel-guide-to-israel-jerusalem-the-holy-city\/#Shopping\" >Shopping<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-7\" href=\"https:\/\/zmanmekomi.com\/en\/a-personal-travel-guide-to-israel-jerusalem-the-holy-city\/#My_Favorite_Place_in_the_Old_City\" >My Favorite Place in the Old City<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/nav><\/div>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Jerusalem%E2%80%94The_Holy_City_Suggested_Time_6_to_7_nights\"><\/span><strong>Jerusalem\u2014The Holy City\u00a0<\/strong>Suggested Time: \u00a06 to 7 nights<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Why did I allocate so much time to Jerusalem? \u00a0Because Jerusalem is the heart and soul of Israel and the Jewish people, and perhaps the most emotionally and spiritually (as well as politically) charged place on Earth. \u00a0The ancients thought that Jerusalem was the center of the world, the \u201cnavel of the world,\u201d or the very \u201cfoundation stone of creation.\u201d From my standpoint, that\u2019s about right. \u00a0For me, Jerusalem is quite simply the most remarkable city in the world.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Jerusalem was divided between Israel and Jordan after the 1948 War for Independence, and the Old City, with all its holy sites, was held by Jordan and barred to Jews for 19 years. \u00a0Like Berlin in the Cold War, Jerusalem was a bitterly divided city with walls and barbed wire at its heart. In the Six-Day War, Israel captured the Old City together with the West Bank and reunited the city, annexing the eastern part, an action not recognized by most of the world. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The city is still often referred to by its parts: The New City (West Jerusalem, Jewish); the Old City (the small, walled, ancient city); and East Jerusalem (the modern, mostly Arab section to the east). Whatever its legal and diplomatic status, to a large degree, Jerusalem remains culturally and politically divided and, of course, deeply contested. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Safety is really not an issue, though. While I feel less comfortable walking around the Old City at night, and you should always keep your wits about you, don\u2019t be intimidated by the crowds and the frequently chaotic feel. I have walked all over the Old City on every trip and never had problems. Given recurring tensions, however, I would recommend avoiding the Damascus Gate area and the Muslim Quarter around Friday prayer time. \u00a0That\u2019s it\u2014otherwise, you\u2019re fine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tiqets.com\/en\/jerusalem-c68627\/jerusalem-bethlehem-dead-sea-roundtrip-from-jerusalem-p979590?partner=zmammekomi\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Tickets for Jerusalem, Bethlehem &amp; Dead Sea: Roundtrip from Jerusalem<\/a>To make this complex city even more confusing, the Old City has four traditional quarters. \u00a0They are the Christian Quarter (northwest), the Muslim Quarter (northeast), the Armenian Quarter (southeast), and the Jewish Quarter (southwest). \u00a0Each quarter has a distinct character, though there are no fixed divisions or markers and there is some diversity of population in each of the quarters.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I have long stayed at the\u00a0<strong>Three Arches Hotel in the Jerusalem International YMCA<\/strong>, 26 King David Street, P.O. Box 294, Jerusalem 91002 Israel, tel. (02) 569-2692;\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.ymca3arches.com\/\">https:\/\/www.ymca3arches.com<\/a>. \u00a0This is not like staying in a YMCA in the United States; this is\u00a0<em>not<\/em>\u00a0transient housing or a hostel. \u00a0It is in a beautiful stone building (pictured at right), built by the British in 1931 and designed by the same architect who did the Empire State Building in New York City. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The location cannot be beat: directly across the street from the King David Hotel (Israel\u2019s most prestigious hotel) and a 15-minute walk from the Old City. While the YMCA Hotel had declined in the 2000s, this remarkable institution is truly coming back under recent leadership, particularly the hotel and restaurant director Raed Leil. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There is work yet to do, to be sure\u2014but the direction of the place is\u00a0<em>very<\/em>\u00a0positive. \u00a0Brett can be picky, but even though it was the most basic place we stayed on that trip, he really loved it\u2014simple but clean accommodations, great service, excellent breakfasts, and tons of character! \u00a0If you need your hotel to be upscale or near-perfect, this may not be the place for you. But I remain in love with the place and frankly can\u2019t imagine staying anywhere else. And in a major, new benefit,\u00a0<strong>the YMCA just opened a new and hugely expanded sports center<\/strong>, which is as nice as any I have seen at home\u2014and it\u2019s yours to use as a hotel guest at no extra charge. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The photo to the left shows what a plus that is!\u00a0My loyalty to the YMCA primarily stems from its mission, however. \u00a0The staff includes Jews, Christian Arabs, and Muslim Arabs, and the programming is interfaith for all three faiths, including the world-renowned Jewish-Arab preschool program that I mentioned earlier in this guide. \u00a0At breakfast, it is a real treat to watch the parade of parents (mostly daddies, actually) escorting their adorable kids into the preschool; it is one of the real perks of the place! People from all over the world and many Israelis stay there as well. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The Jerusalem International YMCA is in the New City on King David Street, but only a 10-15-minute walk from the Jaffa Gate into the Old City. You can get more information about the YMCA and its hotel at\u00a0www.jerusalemymca.org. \u00a0I note, though, that the YMCA restaurant is not kosher for visitors needing that. \u00a0For more hotel information, price inquiries, or registration, e-mail\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:y3arches@netvision.net.il\">y3arches@netvision.net.il<\/a>. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If this is your choice, you need to book directly here; Regent Tours does not work with the YMCA.\u00a0But in the interest of giving you a range of hotel choices, there are two boutique hotels that have generally received very good reviews on TripAdvisor, though I have no direct experience with either of them: The\u00a0<strong>Harmony Hotel<\/strong>\u00a0at 6 Yoel Salomon Street in the Ben-Yehuda district (<a href=\"http:\/\/www.atlas.co.il\/harmony-hotel-jerusalem\">www.atlas.co.il\/harmony-hotel-jerusalem<\/a>); and the\u00a0<strong>Dan Boutique Hotel\u00a0<\/strong>in the German Colony area (<a href=\"http:\/\/www.danhotels.com\/JerusalemHotels\/DanBoutiqueJerusalemHotel\">www.danhotels.com\/JerusalemHotels\/DanBoutiqueJerusalemHotel<\/a>) at 31 Hebron Road. \u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The Harmony\u2019s location is ideal, right off of the Ben-Yehuda street mall area, but prices have gone way up, so it is no longer the real deal that it once was. \u00a0The\u00a0<strong>Arthur Hotel<\/strong>\u00a0is a newer Atlas Hotel entry and I hear good things; it may be more reasonably priced than its sister hotel The Harmony. \u00a0Another choice is the\u00a0<strong>Prima Royale Hotel<\/strong>\u00a0not far from the YMCA, but again I have never stayed there, though most reports have been positive. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The\u00a0<strong>Eldan Hotel\u00a0<\/strong>next door to the YMCA is a clean, modern, and reasonable option, and if you book it with your rental car, you can get a price break. \u00a0But the hotel doesn\u2019t have much character. If you want to splurge and spoil yourself, of course, there is always the option of the historic and very opulent\u00a0<strong>King David Hotel<\/strong>\u00a0across the street from the YMCA or its newer competitor, the\u00a0<strong>David Citadel Hotel<\/strong>\u00a0just down the street. \u00a0Other good choices in the central city area (truly the best place to say) include the\u00a0<strong>Dan Panorama\u00a0<\/strong>and the\u00a0<strong>Inbal Hotel<\/strong>, both well established and fine hotels. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you really want a classic, different experience, check out the\u00a0<strong>Mount Zion Hotel<\/strong>\u00a0overlooking the Valley of Gehinnom and the Old City, located not far from the German Colony on Derech Hebron Street, tel. (02) 568-9555;\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.mountzion.co.il\/\">www.mountzion.co.il<\/a>. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The Mount Zion really does have extraordinary character; I may try it for a different experience on a future trip.\u00a0You can find other options on TripAdvisor as well. \u00a0I would also recommend that you discuss these and other possible Jerusalem alternatives with\u00a0<strong>Regent Tours<\/strong>, which probably can get you a significant price break.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There are less expensive, guesthouse options in the New City as well. \u00a0On my 2012 trip, I stayed at\u00a0<strong>St. Andrew\u2019s Scottish Guest House<\/strong>, known to Jerusalemites as \u201c<strong>the Scotty<\/strong>.\u201d \u00a0Located at 1 David Remez Street off King David Street, south of the YMCA and King David Hotel\u2014tell the cab driver you are going to \u201cthe St. Andrew\u2019s Scottish Church,\u201d or he may not know it. \u00a0Tel. (02) 673-2401, website\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.scotsguesthouse.com\/\">www.scotsguesthouse.com<\/a>, e-mail\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:info@scotsguesthouse.com\">info@scotsguesthouse.com<\/a>. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It is basic but has charm, and I liked it. \u00a0Warning\u2014there is no elevator, and walking up to the third floor every day after a whole day of walking the city got a little old. \u00a0Breakfasts were good but not spectacular. The staff is very helpful, especially the wonderfully warm Jakoub who will bid you \u201cWelcome!!\u201d about a dozen times a day. And the view of the southern parts of the Old City is breathtaking! The most affordable option for budget travelers may be the\u00a0<strong>Abraham Hostel<\/strong>, located in the New City at 67 Ha-Nevi\u2019im Street on Davidka Square, tel. (02) 650-2200;\u00a0https:\/\/abrahamhostels.com\/jerusalem;\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:info@abrahamhostels.com\">info@abrahamhostels.com<\/a>. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In addition to a very well regarded, reasonably priced place to stay, offering the chance to meet other travelers from around the world, the Abraham Hostel is renowned for the tours it offers, for guests and non-guests alike. \u00a0For a Jewish guesthouse, consider\u00a0<strong>Bet Shmu\u2019el<\/strong>\u00a0at the Jerusalem campus of the Hebrew Union College (the Reform seminary based in my city of Cincinnati, I\u2019m proud to say) on Eliyahu Shama\u2019a Street off King David Street, next to the David Citadel Hotel, tel. (02) 620-3455; (02) 620-3456,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.beitshmuel.co.il\/Accommodation\">https:\/\/www.beitshmuel.co.il\/Accommodation<\/a>.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Finally, while I generally recommend that people stay in the center city area in the New City, some prefer to stay in the Old City for its atmosphere and centrality to the holy sites. \u00a0Be aware, though, that some people feel uncomfortable walking in the Old City at night, not because it is dangerous but because it is simply mostly empty and a little spooky. While the \u201cold city\u201d section is often the happening place in European cities, the Old City of Jerusalem truly shuts down at night. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>But if you do want the Old City experience, I recommend the\u00a0<strong>Lutheran Guest House<\/strong>\u00a0that is connected to the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer in the Christian Quarter on St. Mark\u2019s Road, tel. (02) 626-6888. \u00a0See the website at\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/luth-guesthouse-jerusalem.com\/\">http:\/\/luth-guesthouse-jerusalem.com<\/a>\u00a0for more information. \u00a0It is a clean, lovely, and well-run property that has been recently renovated, close to the Jaffa Gate for easy access to the New City. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>For other options,\u00a0<strong>The Austrian Hospice<\/strong>\u00a0in the Muslim Quarter is another lovely building with clean rooms, but I would find walking in that area at night quite daunting, particularly given the tensions sometimes present in the Muslim Quarter. \u00a0Some people like staying at the\u00a0<strong>Christ Church Guest House<\/strong>, an Anglican institution just inside the Jaffa Gate, but I am very much opposed to their historic mission of evangelizing Jews. (Again, my guide\u2014my opinions!)\u00a0I strongly recommend that you don\u2019t bother with a rental car in Jerusalem; it is a bewildering and difficult city to drive in and even worse to park in! \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Just return your rental car when you arrive in the city and take cabs, buses, or the new light rail inside the city, which is wonderful! Finding a cab on the street will be safe and fine, but for trips within the city,\u00a0<strong><em>always\u00a0<\/em>insist on using the meter and get out if they will not turn it on<\/strong>! \u00a0One easy way to do that is to ask for a receipt (<em>kabbalah<\/em>) when you get in; the driver cannot generate a receipt without using the meter. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I had fewer fights on this issue recently, but it still happens.\u00a0<strong>Avoid the cabs that gather in front of the King David Hotel!<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a0They are sharks who consistently try to charge grossly inflated, flat rates, while claiming ridiculous things like \u201cI don\u2019t have a meter.\u201d \u00a0Walk down the street a little bit to the David Citadel Hotel; for some reason, the taxi drivers there are more honest, even though it\u2019s just as upscale of a hotel. \u00a0You can also use the\u00a0<strong>Gett<\/strong>\u00a0taxi app, which is so easy and avoids the meter issue altogether. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you catch a cab at the Jaffa Gate, be aware that your driver may be Arab and less familiar with destinations in the western parts of the New City. \u00a0With GPS programs, that is less of an issue.\u00a0Some Israeli Jewish cab drivers may also be reluctant to go to parts of East Jerusalem (for example, the Mount of Olives), particularly at night or on Fridays, and they cannot by law drive into areas controlled by the Palestinian Authority, such as Bethlehem or Jericho. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You can easily catch Arab cabs or buses near the Damascus Gate to access those areas if needed. In fact, Arab cab drivers will constantly ask if they can take you to Bethlehem; saying \u201cno\u201d repeatedly can get wearying.\u00a0Jerusalem is endlessly fascinating. \u00a0Without exaggeration, you could spend weeks in this city and not run out of things to see and do. \u00a0But since you don\u2019t likely have that much time, I offer these suggestions for day-to-day itineraries.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Days_One_and_Two\"><\/span>Days One and Two<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Wander through the Old City, preferably on a walking tour of the Four Quarters. \u00a0Your best bet may be the\u00a0<strong>free Four Quarters walking tours offered by\u00a0Sandeman\u2019s<\/strong>\u00a0every day starting at 11:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m.; see\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.newjerusalemtours.com\/\">www.newjerusalemtours.com<\/a>\u00a0for more information. \u00a0The guides are not paid, however, so please plan to tip at least \u20aa50 per person. Another option is to hire one of my favorite guides from the now defunct Zion Walking Tours; he is an Armenian Jerusalemite named\u00a0<strong>Aram Khatchadourian<\/strong>, who can take you into the Armenian Quarter, which is usually inaccessible to outsiders except for a few areas because it\u2019s largely residential, along with a more traditional tour of the rest of the Old City. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You can reach him at (050) 335-1859\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10503351859\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a>(cell) or (02) 626-4537 (home). Any guide can give a Four Quarters walking tour, however.\u00a0<strong>Touring with Madeleine Lavine or Eyal Amos Reuven<\/strong>\u00a0You should consider hiring a good private guide to see all that this amazing city has to offer, and I have two strong recommendation on that score<strong>. \u00a0The first and a longtime favorite is\u00a0Madeleine Lavine<\/strong>, who served on the YMCA staff before taking up full-time guiding. She is knowledgeable, very pleasant, professional, and has a delightful, dry sense of humor that shows her roots in Leeds, England. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Madeleine offers a wide range of tours; even though I have been to Jerusalem seventeen times and explored seemingly everywhere, she consistently shows me aspects of the city that are new to me. \u00a0She also offers individual or group Four Quarters tours, tours of the Mount of Olives and the Old City, and just about anything you can imagine. Madeleine is also licensed to drive people around the country as well. \u00a0<strong>Madeleine is my top recommendation for a tour guide for Jerusalem and elsewhere in Israel, and I cannot speak highly enough of her.You can reach her at\u00a0<\/strong><a href=\"mailto:madl@smile.net.il\"><strong>madl@smile.net.il<\/strong><\/a><strong>, or (054) 450-4098\u00a0<a class=\"gv-tel-link\" title=\"Call +1 0544504098 via Google Voice\" href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10544504098\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10544504098\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a>(cell) or (02) 678-0058 (home). \u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You can also learn more about her work by reading her blog at\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.touringwithmadeleine.blogspot.com\/\">www.touringwithmadeleine.blogspot.com<\/a>.\u00a0<strong>Another terrific option for a guide isEyal Amos Reuven<\/strong>\u00a0(<a href=\"mailto:eyal@travelingjerusalem.com\">eyal@travelingjerusalem.com<\/a>; tel. (050) 866-3484)<a href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10508663484\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a>; he based in the city as well. \u00a0I toured with Eyal (pictured with me at left) for two full days on my most recent trip, focused on the military history of the city (1948 and 1967) and a detailed look at the archeological remains from the Second Temple period. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>He is brilliant and as a new guide tends to be more available than his more senior colleagues. I just love spending time with him, and this man knows his stuff! There are other guides who enjoy good reputations, and still others, including some who are recommended on TripAdvisor, whom I have met and frankly would avoid. \u00a0Feel free to e-mail me privately for more information on others.\u00a0<strong>But you\u2019re in good hands with Madeleine or Eyal.<\/strong>\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Whether with a guide or on your own, key sites in the Old City include the\u00a0<strong>Arab Market<\/strong>\u00a0on David Street inside the Jaffa Gate, and\u00a0<strong>Burnt House and Herodian House<\/strong>, the remains of the homes of wealthy priestly families burned when the Romans destroyed Jerusalem at the end of the Great Revolt in 70 C.E. \u00a0Of course, you will want to see the\u00a0<strong>Western Wall and Temple Mount<\/strong>\u00a0(which Muslims call\u00a0<strong>al-Haram al-Sharif<\/strong>, the \u201cNoble Sanctuary\u201d), pictured at left. \u00a0The hours for non-Muslim tourists to visit Temple Mount\/Haram al-Sharif vary at this writing but are generally 9:00-11:00 a.m. and some hours in the early afternoon as well. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It is not open to non-Muslims on Fridays, the Muslim prayer day, or on Shabbat. The\u00a0<strong>Dome of the Rock<\/strong>\u00a0shrine atop Temple Mount is the most beautiful thing made by human hands I have ever seen. \u00a0When you go onto Temple Mount, you will have to pass strict Israeli security, but remember that the Islamic religious trust (the Waqf) has jurisdiction on the Mount itself. \u00a0Unfortunately, non-Muslims are not permitted inside either the\u00a0<strong>Dome of the Rock<\/strong>\u00a0or\u00a0<strong>Al-Aqsa Mosque<\/strong>. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The closure stems from the conflicts of 2000; it is purely political and very unfortunate, and recent (and false) claims that the Israelis are trying to change the \u201cstatus quo\u201d on Temple Mount\/Haram al-Sharif have made tensions even worse. \u00a0It\u2019s a tense place and conditions can change day to day.\u00a0There is one, possible way to get into Al-Aqsa and the Dome of the Rock. <strong>Sam Salem<\/strong>, who worked for years at the UN headquarters for Middle East operations in Jerusalem, now leads tour groups, and through his connections, he\u00a0<strong>can take occasionally small groups of non-Muslim visitors along with VIP tours into the Dome of the Rock and Al-Aqsa Mosque.<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Such visits are limited to once or twice a month and are never guaranteed, but tell him you found him through my guide, and he may be able to do this for you\u2014no promises! \u00a0Remember that the Waqf (Islamic Trust) that controls Temple Mount may cancel access to those holy sites at any time without notice, even if Sam had prior approval for a tour, and that is a risk any visitor must assume. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>You can reach Sam at (054) 482-8207\u00a0<a class=\"gv-tel-link\" title=\"Call +1 0544828207 via Google Voice\" href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10544828207\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10544828207\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a>or at\u00a0<\/strong><a href=\"mailto:guide.holy@gmail.com\"><strong>guide.holy@gmail.com<\/strong><\/a><strong>. Note: <\/strong>Inside these Muslim holy places,\u00a0<strong>one\u00a0<em>cannot<\/em>\u00a0visibly pray or engage in\u00a0<em>any<\/em>\u00a0act of non-Muslim worship or devotion<\/strong>\u2014to do so will create a major incident and could jeopardize Sam\u2019s access permanently. Sam also offers tours of the Old City of Jerusalem, Jericho, Bethlehem, Herodian, and Hebron. \u00a0I have used Sam to tour Temple Mount, including the insides of the Muslim shrines (see the photo on right from inside the Dome of the Rock!), as well as Bethlehem and Hebron. Sam is about the sweetest, kindest man you can imagine. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Full disclosure:<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a0Sam is not licensed as a guide in Israel. \u00a0While this is a matter of considerable controversy on the TripAdvisor forum, I have decided that this is irrelevant to me when it comes to touring sites outside the Green Line (pre-1967 Israel), though I don\u2019t use him within Israel proper. \u00a0I find Sam delightful to tour with and have received nothing but positive comments from others who have used him. You can obviously decide for yourself as an adult. Some on TripAdvisor have questioned whether he has liability insurance when driving paying passengers; Sam insists he is insured to transport passengers, and I trust him. You can ask yourself if concerned.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Remember that the Temple Mount\/al-Haram al-Sharif is holy to more people than any other place on Earth, and it is very contentious. \u00a0It is a tense place, but if it is not safe to go up, the security authorities won\u2019t allow you to go. This small hilltop is charged with religious emotion, history, and political struggles. \u00a0But don\u2019t miss it\u2014one of the most amazing places on Earth.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Other group touring options:<\/strong>\u00a0While we\u2019re on the topic of guides and group tours, I will share contact information for several companies that offer group tours, either walking tours or via vehicles, both for Jerusalem and the country as a whole. \u00a0I thank a TripAdvisor user who goes by \u201cDC Suburbanite\u201d for this excellent list! I can\u2019t personally endorse any companies other than the Western Wall Tunnel Tours (discussed below). But contact information for some tour providers is listed below:\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Bein Harim Daily Tours<\/strong>\u00a0(offers both an economy class and a business class)\u00a0Phone: (03) 546-8870\u00a0Website: \u00a0www.beinharim.co.il\/English.html\u00a0E-mail:\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:info@beinharim.co.il\">info@beinharim.co.il<\/a><strong> David Tours<\/strong>\u00a0Phone: (02) 627-1179\u00a0Website: \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.davidstours.com\/\">www.davidstours.com<\/a>\u00a0(note the \u201cs\u201d in the address)\u00a0E-mail: \u00a0<a href=\"mailto:dtours@zahav.net.il\">dtours@zahav.net.il<\/a><strong> Egged Tours\u00a0<\/strong>(this is the omnipresent Israeli bus company)\u00a0Phone: (03) 920-3998 or (03) 920-3919\u00a0Website: \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.egged.co.il\/eng\">www.egged.co.il\/eng<\/a>\u00a0(click on tourism at top of page then select \u201cLine 99 bus tour\u201d or \u201cTours around Holy Land\u201d)\u00a0E-mail: \u00a0<a href=\"mailto:limord@eggedtours.co.il\">limord@eggedtours.co.il<\/a><strong> Eshet<\/strong>\u00a0Phone: (03) 693-7777 (only if you book hotel through them).\u00a0<strong>Jerusalem\u2019s Municipal Government walking tours<\/strong>\u00a0Saturday mornings at 10:00 a.m., at 32 Jaffa Street near Russian compound\u00a0Phone: (02) 531-4600, (02) 531-4106\u00a0E-mail: \u00a0<a href=\"mailto:jereng@jerusalem.muni.il\">jereng@jerusalem.muni.il<\/a><strong>Knesset Tours<\/strong>\u00a0English language tours on Sunday and Thursday\u00a0Phone: (02) 675-3420 or (02) 675-3416\u00a0Website: \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.knesset.gov.il\/\">www.knesset.gov.il<\/a>\u00a0E-mail: \u00a0<a href=\"mailto:feedback@knesset.gov.il\">feedback@knesset.gov.il<\/a><strong> Ofakim<\/strong>\u00a0Phone: (03) 761-0610\u00a0Website: \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.ofakim.co.il\/\">www.ofakim.co.il<\/a>\u00a0(Hebrew and Russian only)\u00a0<strong>Abraham Tours<\/strong>\u00a0Website: \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.abrahamtours.com\/\">www.abrahamtours.com<\/a><strong> Authentic Israel<\/strong>\u00a0Phone: (03) 630-6306; from U.S (202) 248-1260\u00a0<a class=\"gv-tel-link\" title=\"Call +1 202-248-1260 via Google Voice\" href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B12022481260\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B12022481260\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a>or (800) 600-5194<a href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B18006005194\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a>\u00a0Website: \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.authenticisrael.com\/\">www.authenticisrael.com<\/a>\u00a0\u2013 click on \u201cDaily Tours\u201d and then \u201cBus Tours\u201d\u00a0E-mail: \u00a0<a href=\"mailto:info@authenticisrael.com\">info@authenticisrael.com<\/a><strong> Western Wall Tunnel Tours<\/strong>\u00a0Phone: (02) 627-1333\u00a0Website: \u00a0english.thekotel.org\/content.asp?id=226\u00a0E-mail: \u00a0<a href=\"mailto:contact-english@thekotel.org\">contact-english@thekotel.org<\/a><strong> United Tours<\/strong>\u00a0Phone: (02) 625-2187, (03) 616-2656, (03) 693-3412\u00a0Website: \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.inisrael.com\/united\">www.inisrael.com\/united<\/a><strong> Sandeman Tours<\/strong>\u00a0Website: \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.newjerusalemtours.com\/\">www.newjerusalemtours.com<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Day_Three\"><\/span>Day Three<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>By rental car, travel to\u00a0<strong>Masada<\/strong>\u00a0on the shore of the\u00a0<strong>Dead Sea<\/strong>. \u00a0(Numerous companies, including United and Egged, also offer small guided tours via vans, and Abraham Tours offers less expensive transportation-only group trips with no guide. Given that you don\u2019t need a tour guide for Masada, that\u2019s a good option.) \u00a0Masada is stunning, beautiful, and simply unforgettable. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Masada or \u201cMetzada\u201d, which means \u201cfortress\u201d in Hebrew, was a flat mountaintop fortified by the Maccabees following their revolt against the Greeks in 165 B.C.E. (the Chanukah story), and King Herod later chose this mountain as the site for his fortified winter palace. \u00a0But it is best known as the last holdout of nearly a thousand Jewish defenders after the fall of Jerusalem in 70 C.E. The Zealots held off the Tenth Roman Legion for more than a year, but eventually after the Romans breached the walls, all but six took their own lives rather than face slaughter or \u201clive\u201d as Roman slaves. New Israeli soldiers often climb Masada to take an oath that \u201cMasada shall not fall again.\u201d \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You can be a purist and hike to the top via the Snake Path (moderately strenuous, takes about an hour, and the word \u201csnake\u201d refers to the path\u2019s shape, not the presence of slithering reptiles). Or you can take the cable car. The view is unforgettable, and if you close your eyes, you can almost hear the final, defiant speech of Jewish commander Eleazar ben-Yair to his doomed followers. Like most visitors, I find Masada haunting. \u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>PLEASE NOTE<\/strong>: The Dead Sea is some 423 meters (1,388 feet) below sea level (the lowest point on Earth) and is hot year around\u2014take\u00a0<em>lots<\/em>\u00a0of water and sun protection with you, including hats. \u00a0If you\u2019re going to hike, start very early, particularly in the warmer months. \u00a0In the summer, it will be a brutal experience by mid-morning. Be sure to force water\u2014up to a liter every hour or two. \u00a0Do not wait until you are thirsty; by then, it is too late to catch up. Because of rapid evaporation, you will be unaware of how much water you are losing through sweat. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Not to be gross, but if your urine is deep yellow, you\u2019re dehydrating and need to drink more!\u00a0In 2006, I hiked to the top of Masada at sunrise, accompanied by an amazing guide from the neighboring kibbutz at Ein Gedi (see below). He is known by one and all as\u00a0<strong>Zabu<\/strong>. \u00a0Zabu is up in years, has a long, gray beard, and actually looks a little like a gnome. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Don\u2019t underestimate him based on age or size; that man hiked Masada in sandals in 50 minutes flat without a break (except to check on me)! \u00a0He worked on some of the original excavations of the site in the 1960s and will give you wonderful insights on what you are seeing. Note, though, that Zabu\u2019s take on the Masada story is not traditional, and he will give you grist for thought that does not fit the common heroic mythology\u2014he sees the Zealots who made Masada their final stand as religious extremists who brought disaster upon the Jewish people. (He is not alone; the legacy of Masada is now the subject of a broader debate within Israeli society.) <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>But more than that, Zabu is simply a local institution. He has lived on the kibbutz since the early 1960s, he never stops, and just mentioning his name to a fellow kibbutznik brings a smile and a story! Zabu is an Israeli experience in his own right. After the paid tour, he walked my friend Louis and me around the kibbutz and asked how long we had known each other. \u00a0When I explained we had been friends since our undergraduate and law school days (dating back 30 years at that point), he actually blessed us and made us promise to remain friends for life. It was quite moving.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>You can reach Zabu on his cell at (052) 387-5022,<a class=\"gv-tel-link\" title=\"Call +1 0523875022 via Google Voice\" href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10523875022\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10523875022\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a>\u00a0or through his son Danny at\u00a0<\/strong><a href=\"mailto:dlevyim@netvision.net.il\"><strong>dlevyim@netvision.net.il<\/strong><\/a><strong>. \u00a0<\/strong>I know I say this about everyone I refer to, but truly\u00a0<em>do<\/em>\u00a0say \u201cshalom\u201d (and give him a hug) for me. \u00a0I love this man, as everyone seems to.\u00a0After Masada, you can then drive to\u00a0<strong>Ein Gedi<\/strong>, an oasis on the Dead Sea with its own beach and spa where you can experience the mineral baths and the mud baths, both of which are reputed to be good for the skin, and then go in the Dead Sea to float. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The water is about 30% minerals and it is impossible to sink. Note: Take foot gear (more than flip flops) out with you that you can wear into the water or you\u2019ll cut your feet, and\u00a0<em>whatever you do, do not try to swim or put your head in the water<\/em>! \u00a0If that ultra-brackish water gets in your eyes, nose, or mouth, you\u2019ll feel like you\u2019re going to die. \u00a0Just sit gently backwards in it and bob. It really is cool, and yes, that is me bobbing in the water with the foolish \u201clook, ma, no hands!\u201d pose. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I note that young children are sometimes spooked by the unexpected buoyancy, and when spooked, children tend to flail, with disastrous results both for their eyes and those of others nearby. \u00a0So, I\u2019d skip this experience with younger kids; I\u2019ve seen them screaming as lifeguards try to flush out their eyes. By the way, Ein Gedi\u2019s \u201cspa\u201d is basic, but it was good enough for me for a quick dip, which is all I ever do. \u00a0Several the Dead Sea \u201cbeaches\u201d have closed because of the serious sinkhole problem; another option on the northern end is the Kalia Beach. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Check for confirmation when you travel.\u00a0If you want to stay at the Dead Sea for a night, there are a host of luxury hotels from which to choose, particularly in the Ein Bokek area further to the south. \u00a0(Note: Ein Bokek hotels and beaches appear unaffected by the sinkhole problem.) Doing so would probably allow you to cut one day off your Jerusalem itinerary, since you would have already visited Masada and the Dead Sea. Of course, you can stay in the luxury spa hotels in Ein Bokek if that is what you are looking for. \u00a0But if you want a\u00a0<em>real\u00a0<\/em>Dead Sea experience in an ancient oasis now settled by a modern kibbutz, check out the\u00a0<strong>guesthouse at Kibbutz Ein Gedi<\/strong>. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The kibbutz guest house offers very nice, if basic, accommodations. \u00a0(The highest-level rooms are\u00a0<em>arugot<\/em>\u00a0rooms, but the Desert-level rooms are fine and less expensive; don\u2019t go below that level, because the other rooms will be very basic and dormitory-like.) \u00a0Staying here gives you a tiny taste of kibbutz life; for example, you will eat in a dining hall, which gives you a chance to interact with kibbutzniks on some level. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ein Gedi is an ancient oasis mentioned repeatedly in the Bible, most famously as the place where the young David hid from the wrathful King Saul, and the kibbutz has a world-renowned botanical garden. \u00a0Be sure to hike up the\u00a0<strong>Wadi David<\/strong>\u00a0with its lovely, small waterfall, and visit the ancient synagogue excavated nearby. \u00a0Even if you don\u2019t use him to tour Masada, be sure to meet Zabu while visiting Ein Gedi. \u00a0Just ask after him; e<em>veryone<\/em>\u00a0knows him. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>They call him \u201cSaba Zabu\u201d (\u201cGrandpa Zabu.\u201d) \u00a0Can you tell I love this man? So do they, even the young kibbutz members.\u00a0After the Dead Sea, I also recommend a stop at\u00a0<strong>Qumran<\/strong>, the community (probably the ancient Essenes) where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found. \u00a0It\u2019s an interesting site, particularly with a recent (and relatively well done, only semi-cheesy) interpretive film, and it\u2019s right on your way back to Jerusalem. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The community at Qumran hid their scrolls in the caves above the settlement as the Romans marched through on their way to destroy Jerusalem in the Great Revolt. But they never came back to retrieve them, and they lay in the caves until a Bedouin shepherd tossed a stone into a cave and heard pottery shattering. \u00a0Where did they go? Were they part of the group that perished at Masada? History echoes in haunting ways on a day like this. It\u2019s quite special.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Day_Four\"><\/span>Day Four<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Tour the western parts of the New City. \u00a0I highly recommend at least a half day at\u00a0<strong>Yad Vashem<\/strong>, Israel\u2019s Holocaust Memorial. \u00a0It is terrifying and moving, and very well done. \u00a0The new historical museum truly does justice to the story of the murder of six million European Jews. \u00a0Be sure to see the Children\u2019s Memorial, the most evocative memorial to grief and loss that I have ever experienced. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The first time I went through, I was in tears and my knees were shaking, but I was grateful for this remembrance of the one and a half million children murdered in the Holocaust. \u00a0Another evocative site very close to Yad Vashem is\u00a0<strong>Mount Herzl<\/strong>, the national cemetery of the State of Israel, much like that country\u2019s Arlington. \u00a0Here are buried such giants as Yitzhak Rabin and Golda Meir as well as hundreds of Israel\u2019s fallen soldiers and other heroes. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This is best toured with a guide. Seeing both would be a full (and emotional) day. If you only see one of those sites, after that you can go to the\u00a0<strong>Israel Museum<\/strong>, known as the national museum of the Jewish people. \u00a0It is best known for housing the Dead Sea Scrolls in the famous Shrine of the Book (pictured at right), but it has a world-renowned archaeological wing, an excellent collection of Judaica through the ages (including four historic synagogues reconstructed in the museum), and an excellent modern art and impressionist collection. \u00a0See\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.imj.org.il\/en\">https:\/\/www.imj.org.il\/en<\/a>. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The Israel Museum is also the home of a famous model of First Century Jerusalem that really helps you picture the city in the time of Herod\u2019s Second Temple. Check on line or call for the times of free docent tours, particularly of the archeology wing, which really brings this stunning collection to life. The\u00a0<strong>Bible Lands Museum<\/strong>\u00a0next door is worth seeing as well, if you have the time;\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.blmj.org\/\">www.blmj.org<\/a>\/en\/. \u00a0You can also tour the\u00a0<strong>Knesset<\/strong>, Israel\u2019s Parliament. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Overall, the building is generally unremarkable unless you are interested in Israeli politics (which makes ours look tame, by the way), but there are spectacular murals in the Knesset reception hall painted by Marc Chagall, depicting themes from Jewish history. \u00a0You need to arrange the Knesset visit in advance because of security screening.\u00a0<strong>\u00a0Note:\u00a0<\/strong>A new policy bars jeans, tank tops, open-toed shoes, or revealing clothing while visiting the Knesset. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The lawyer in me suggests that you visit the\u00a0<strong>Israel Supreme Court<\/strong>\u00a0nearby, an architecturally interesting building (much more so than the Knesset), pictured at left. \u00a0You can take a free tour in English at 12:00 noon Sunday through Thursday but must make a prior reservation at (02) 675-9612 or -9613.\u00a0You may want to spread this over two days, since Yad Vashem can take most of a day and can be emotionally exhausting. \u00a0To do that and another site on the same day will make for a fast-paced and long day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Day_Five\"><\/span>Day Five<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Explore some more in the Old City. \u00a0If you\u2019re interested, go to the\u00a0<strong>Church of the Holy Sepulcher<\/strong>\u00a0in the Christian Quarter. \u00a0Be aware, though, that many North American and Western European Christians find this church to be very foreign and even bewildering and, as a result, they are often disappointed. \u00a0Six ancient sects share the church today, some of which you may never have heard of. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The squabbles among clergy over the use of the church are legendary, sometimes even erupting into fistfights. \u00a0It is cramped, sprawling, noisy, sometimes smelly (too many people, too little bathing, and too much incense), but fascinating. This is worth touring with a guide, as it\u2019s pretty bewildering on your own. \u00a0I\u2019ve been many times and still get lost. Also, see this remarkable site explaining the church in detail:\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.generationword.com\/jerusalem101\/52-holy-sepulcher.html\">www.generationword.com\/jerusalem101\/52-holy-sepulcher.html<\/a>. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If possible, ask your guide to show you the Chapel of St. Vartan with its \u201cLord, we have arrived\u201d graffito in the subterranean grottos from the First or Second Centuries. \u00a0It is below the Armenian section and is not open to the public, but you might get lucky if your guide (such as Aram Khatchadourian) has good Armenian Orthodox contacts. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you get in, you are very fortunate, and please give a donation of \u20aa20-30 to the priest who lets you in. Also, don\u2019t miss a quiet and moving part of the church, the\u00a0<strong>Ethiopian Coptic quarters<\/strong>\u00a0on the roof. \u00a0(Access it by going up the stairs, just outside the church to the right of the main entrance.) In the small chapel below the roof, you will see a painting of the meeting of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba, from which both Ethiopian Copts and Ethiopian Jews trace their origins. \u00a0This is the most peaceful part of the church, and the stately and dignified Ethiopian monks seem happier than most to answer your questions and show you around. Leave them a contribution, as they are the decided underdogs in this chaotic place.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Finally, while\u00a0<strong>the Edicule<\/strong>\u00a0is the traditional (and always crowded) tomb of Christ, have your guide show you\u00a0the small Syrian chapel opposite the Coptic chapel off the rotunda. There you will find a true Jewish burial cave from the Second Temple period. This will give you a sense of how Jesus was buried and why many scholars believe that the Church of the Holy Sepulcher actually is the most likely site of the crucifixion and burial of Jesus of Nazareth.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The\u00a0<strong>Western Wall Tunnel tour<\/strong>\u00a0starts at the Western Wall and follows a tunnel underground and along the unexposed part of the Western Wall, and it shows much more of the remains of Herod\u2019s Temple complex. \u00a0It emerges in the Muslim Quarter. You must arrange this in advance through the Western Wall Heritage Foundation. For more information about the Western Wall tunnel tours, including how to reserve a spot, see\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/english.thekotel.org\/\">http:\/\/english.thekotel.org<\/a><strong>. \u00a0<\/strong>To make reservations, call 972-2-627-1333 from outside Israel or 1-59-951-5888 inside the country. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The web site also offers live streaming video of the Western Wall, also known as the Kotel (in Hebrew, \u201c<em>ha-kotel ha-ma\u2019aravi<\/em>\u201d). \u00a0For Christians, please note that most Jews don\u2019t use the term \u201cThe Wailing Wall,\u201d and while it is not a slur, many find that term mildly offensive or at least off-putting. \u00a0Jews have come home; they aren\u2019t \u201cwailing\u201d anymore. It\u2019s not respectful usage.\u00a0The picture at the right is my best man Louis and I at the Kotel on the last day of our trip in 2006. \u00a0I am the shorter one on the right, in the hat. I offer some notes about visiting the Western Wall, which for me at least is an emotional highpoint of any visit to Jerusalem:\u00a0Men and women pray in different areas that are strictly segregated, in accordance with Orthodox Jewish practice. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I don\u2019t like it, but that is how it is. The limitation on women\u2019s roles at the site is a deeply controversial issue in some quarters, accepted in others. \u00a0A new, egalitarian prayer area had been promised in the area of Robinson\u2019s Arch in the more southern part of the Western Wall\u2014but now the government has backed away, the latest chapter in Israel\u2019s contentious religio-political infighting.\u00a0If you are male, ultra-Orthodox Jews may ask you to pray with them or to don tefillin (leather boxes containing Scripture worn at morning prayer, but not on Shabbat or most holidays). \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Of course, that might be of interest to you if you are Jewish. It is not an option if you are not. If you\u2019re non-Jewish, just tell them that, and that will end the issue. If you are Jewish and still not interested, just say you would like to pray alone, but you may have to be persistent to the point of bluntness. \u00a0The prayer requests can be relentless to the point of being irritating.\u00a0Men will have to wear head-coverings (a\u00a0<em>kippa<\/em>\u00a0or any other hat), even if not Jewish. \u00a0There are free kippot available, but truly any head covering, including a ball cap, will suffice.\u00a0On Shabbat, do not take photographs, use your cell phone, or smoke cigarettes in the prayer area of the Wall. \u00a0Be respectful here.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Shopping\"><\/span>Shopping<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>While I am not much of a shopper on Israel trips, Madeleine Lavine showed me an extraordinary photography shop called\u00a0<strong>Elia Photo Service<\/strong>\u00a0in the Christian Quarter at 14 Al-Khanka Street. \u00a0The owner, an Armenian named Elie Kahvedjian, is the grandson of an extraordinary photographer who took black-and-white photographs of life in Jerusalem and the Land of Israel in the period of the mid-1920s through the 1960s. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Check out\u00a0https:\/\/www.eliaphoto.com\/\u00a0for a sample of his beautiful work; I was transfixed by these photographs and purchased a stunning photograph of the Old City from the Mount of Olives in 1924. \u00a0It\u2019s worth a visit.\u00a0Brett and I love original art, and on our most recent visit,\u00a0<strong>we discovered a wonderful artist and art teacher in the neighborhood of Yemin Moshe namedPnina Frank<\/strong>; her studio is located at 9 Yemin Moshe Street. \u00a0She is such a kind and interesting person. For information and samples of her work, see\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.pninafrank.com\/\">www.pninafrank.com<\/a>; tel. (052) 891-1642,<a class=\"gv-tel-link\" title=\"Call +1 0528911642 via Google Voice\" href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10528911642\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10528911642\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a>\u00a0e-mail\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:pninart@gmail.com\">pninart@gmail.com<\/a>. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Brett bought one of her paintings of a Jerusalem vista\u2014and we just love it!\u00a0Then there is my favorite shop and shopkeeper in all Jerusalem,\u00a0Yousef Natsheh of the Josef Natsheh Emporium\u00a0at 30 Christian Quarter Street; tel. (02) 627-4537, cell (052) 238-6465.<a class=\"gv-tel-link\" title=\"Call +1 0522386465 via Google Voice\" href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10522386465\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10522386465\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a>\u00a0\u00a0Yousef (pictured with me at left; he is on the right) is from an old Hebron family, and he is warm, welcoming, and doesn\u2019t pressure you to buy. \u00a0Stop and have some tea or coffee with him, and if that is all you do, it will be fine. He will show you things, but takes \u201cno, thanks\u201d for an answer, and he is quite a special man. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>My guide and friend\u00a0Madeleine Lavine\u00a0calls him \u201cmy mate,\u201d and often stops in after long days of touring just to visit with this kind soul; he has become my good friend as well. \u00a0But beyond that, he has amazing textiles, carpets, and scarfs, and I have purchased three woven table runners of a material called \u201cSuzani.\u201d People rave about them! \u00a0Another place for upscale textiles and designs is\u00a0Maro Sandrouni, an artistic designer at 27 St. George Street; tel. (02) 627-7177, cell (054) 584-9034;\u00a0msandrouni@bezeqint.net. \u00a0\u00a0Another nice place to shop\u2014and to help a worthwhile program in the process\u2014is the gift shop at\u00a0Yad La-Kashish, 14 Shivtei Israel Street, tel. (02) 628-7829 or 628-9737,\u00a0www.lifeline.org.il. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This organization is designed to provide meaningful work to elderly and needy residents of Jerusalem, mostly immigrants from the former Soviet Union, Ethiopia, and South America. \u00a0You can see the workshop where the artisans work, and the gift shop offers their hand-made items at very reasonable costs, including cards, wall-hangings, mezuzot, and other Judaica. \u00a0\u00a0Many people touring the Old City are interested in souvenirs, particularly religious items, and the shuk (Arab market) is full of them. \u00a0You need to bargain (start about half of the listed price), and the shuk can be very overwhelming to those not used to it. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I suggest that you go see\u00a0<strong>Henry or his brother Jack at Rex<\/strong>, a jewelry and souvenir shop just inside the Jaffa Gate on the left side just after you enter the market at 3 David Street, tel. (02) 628-4865,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.rexjewelers.com\/\">www.rexjewelers.com<\/a>, e-mail\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:rex_s@netvision.net.il\">rex_s@netvision.net.il<\/a>. \u00a0These guys will let you shop without hassle or intimidation, and I know and trust them. \u00a0Tell them I sent you\u2014but still feel free to ask for their best price. As a note, outside of the Arab market, bargaining is not the norm and the listed price is the price.\u00a0If you are looking for a licensed antiquities dealer, particularly ancient coins with certificates of authenticity, check out\u00a0<strong>Mishirky Antiquities<\/strong>\u00a0run by\u00a0<strong>Zak Samer<\/strong>\u00a0at 24 Christian Quarter Road, tel. (054) 635-3357;\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.oldcityjerusalemgifts.com\/\">www.oldcityjerusalemgifts.com<\/a>; e-mail\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:zakshop24@gmail.com\">zakshop24@gmail.com<\/a>. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>His shop is very close to Josef\u2019s Emporium, and for not a lot of money, I delighted some children from our church at home with coins from figures mentioned in the Bible. \u00a0Be clear about what you want to spend, but Zak is honest and fair.\u00a0For fine Judaica, your best bet is the shops along King David Street and in the Ben Yehuda pedestrian mall area. \u00a0You can find everything from antiques to brilliant, modern interpretations of traditional Jewish objects and art. This area costs more, of course, and unlike the market, prices will be fixed unless you\u2019re buying a lot. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The\u00a0<strong>Mamilla Mall<\/strong>\u00a0area between the Jaffa Gate and the New City, spanning the Valley of Gehinnom, has vastly expanded shopping options near the Old City\u2014this is a very upscale locale. \u00a0For more information on shopping options, search the Israel forum on TripAdvisor for \u201cshopping,\u201d and you will find whole threads of suggestions on that topic.\u00a0For the other days, possibilities include:\u00a0You can also walk around and see some of the other gates into the Old City\u2014there are seven altogether. \u00a0The\u00a0<strong>Damascus Gate and the Lion\u2019s Gate<\/strong>\u00a0are the most elaborate and interesting. \u00a0The\u00a0<strong>New Gate<\/strong>\u00a0is from 1889. \u00a0That\u2019s Jerusalem!\u00a0<strong>The Mount of Olives.<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This site will be of interest to both Christians and Jews. \u00a0For Jews, it is the site of the massive\u00a0<strong>Jewish Cemetery<\/strong>, with graves going back to Second Temple times, and even modern luminaries such as former Prime Minister Menachem Begin are buried there. \u00a0For Christians, the Mount of Olives marks both the beginning of the triumphal entry of Jesus into Jerusalem on Palm Sunday as well as the site of his anguish, betrayal, and arrest following the Last Supper, and according to at least one Gospel, his subsequent ascension into heaven. Several churches commemorate these events, but the main ones to see are\u00a0<strong>Dominus Flevit<\/strong>\u00a0(\u201cthe Lord wept\u201d) higher on the hill and the\u00a0<strong>Church of All Nations at Gethsemane<\/strong>\u00a0farther down. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The latter is a modern church, quite spectacular, and the olive grove and quiet garden outside is the probable site of ancient Gethsemane, which means \u201cplace of the oil press\u201d in Hebrew. \u00a0It is one of the most peaceful, moving places in Israel for Christians, much more spiritually affecting for me than more famous sites such as the Holy Sepulcher. Just try to time your visit to miss the tour bus crowds! \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Finally, if you can get into the breathtaking\u00a0<strong>Russian Orthodox Church of Mary Magdalene<\/strong>, that is a special treat, but its hours are quite limited, Tuesday and Thursday, 10:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m.\u00a0<strong>Note: \u00a0Sam Salem<\/strong>\u00a0(p. 56) has connections in the church and may be able to get you in outside of these times, so consider that when touring with him. \u00a0But check out the gorgeous, gilded onion domes on left, which are perhaps the most stunning visual when looking at the Mount of Olives!\u00a0By the way, a great resource on Jerusalem\u2019s array of Christian churches is\u00a0<strong>Aviva Bar-Am\u2019s book,\u00a0<em>Beyond the Walls: Churches of Jerusalem<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0(Avha Press Jerusalem, 1998). \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>She is a renowned travel writer and former correspondent for the\u00a0<em>Jerusalem Post<\/em>. \u00a0You can pick it up in Jerusalem or on\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.israel-catalog.com\/\">www.israel-catalog.com<\/a>, and used copies are available on Amazon.\u00a0<strong>The City of David<\/strong>.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>These excavations are found on the Ophel Ridge, which extends south from the current Temple Mount (ancient Mount Moriah) down into the present-day Arab village of Silwan. \u00a0This was the original Jerusalem, conquered by King David about the year 1000 B.C.E. to become the capital of his united kingdom. After David\u2019s death, of course, his son Solomon built the First Temple on Mount Moriah, on land which David had purchased. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>God denied David the privilege of building the Temple himself because he was a \u201cman of blood\u201d and had sinned through his adulterous affair with Bathsheba and the arranged killing of her husband Uriah. Recent excavations have exposed a nearly 4,000-year-old Canaanite tunnel that was used to bring water from the Gihon spring into the walled city; it was probably through this tunnel that David\u2019s men infiltrated to conquer the Jebusite city. \u00a0Now you can walk all the way through it to the Pool of Siloam (\u201cShiloach,\u201d in Hebrew), and you can also walk (or wade, rather) through the tunnel dug by King Hezekiah centuries later to provide a constant source of water within the city walls in preparation for the anticipated Assyrian siege, a project which is actually recorded in the Bible. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The City of David is an extraordinary site where biblical stories come alive, and it is indeed where it all began, as you will be constantly reminded. \u00a0You should go with an individual or group tour; unless you know what you are doing, wandering around the modern-day village of Silwan could be unwise because of political tensions, and you won\u2019t know what you are looking at in any event. The City of David (Ir David) Foundation offers English-speaking tours, but you should know that this group has an intensely nationalistic agenda, with which you may or may not be comfortable. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You can get more information about the Foundation and the tours that are offered from their website at\u00a0http:\/\/www.cityofdavid.org.il\/en\/The-Ir-David-Foundation\u00a0or call (02) 626-2341. \u00a0The City of Jerusalem also offers tours on the weekends during part of the year, and other groups may offer tours paired with other sites, such as Mount Zion. \u00a0Any private guide can also take you through the City of David, however\u2014you do not have to use Ir David.\u00a0By the way, while you are exploring the City of David, consider stopping at a lovely little shop called\u00a0<strong>Pool of Siloam Antiquities<\/strong>, tel. (02) 656-3368, cell (052) 409-0413.<a class=\"gv-tel-link\" title=\"Call +1 0524090413 via Google Voice\" href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10524090413\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10524090413\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a>\u00a0\u00a0Its owner\u00a0<strong>Abraham Siam<\/strong>\u00a0is an authorized deal in antiquities (and a great fellow). \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>He offers a range of gifts for sale, including ancient coins with certificates of authenticity. \u00a0His prices are fair and his work trustworthy. Since the true Pool of Siloam has been found in a new location further down, much of his business has dried up (pardon the pun) as the crowds go elsewhere, but he is really worth a visit. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I bought my then ten-year-old nephew a coin from the reign of King Herod Agrippa (c. 42 C.E.), and this was a\u00a0<em>big<\/em>\u00a0hit!\u00a0Interested in some hands-on archeology? \u00a0You can visit the \u201crescue dig\u201d at\u00a0<strong>Emek Tzurim<\/strong>\u00a0at the base of Mount Scopus near the \u201cboundary\u201d with the Mount of Olives, east of the Old City. \u00a0Several years ago, the Waqf (the Islamic Trust which controls the Temple Mount\/Haram al-Sharif) opened a new exit to the underground mosque on Temple Mount in the area (mis)called \u201cSolomon\u2019s Stables.\u201d In doing so, the Waqf illegally excavated under Temple Mount and dumped some 80 truckloads of debris into the Kidron Valley. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This was an archeological atrocity (and completely illegal), as archeologists can only date artifacts based on their location in layers of soil. And this was from under the surface of Temple Mount, where archeological excavations are prohibited but where the soil presumably contains the remains of two Jewish Temples not to mention vital Crusader, Byzantine, and, yes, Muslim history! \u00a0Anyway, the City of David Foundation is working on sifting through the dumped material to rescue what they can, and you can participate. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Volunteers dump out buckets of debris onto a mesh grid, and sort through looking for items. In every bucket we searched, we found shards of pottery, bits of mosaic, bone, and ancient glass\u2014and some volunteers have made quite important finds. It\u2019s really fascinating and would be a great activity for kids as well. \u00a0You can make reservations to participate in this through The City of David Foundation at *6033 (free phone in Israel), or 972-2-626-2341 from abroad, or see this website for more information:\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.cityofdavid.org.il\/en\/tours\/mount-olives\/temple-mount-sifting-project\">www.cityofdavid.org.il\/en\/tours\/mount-olives\/temple-mount-sifting-project<\/a>. \u00a0It is very inexpensive\u2014\u20aa20 for adults and \u20aa16 for children for up to an hour and a half. \u00a0Staff from the dig will give you an introductory talk and oversee the work.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>The Rockefeller Museum<\/strong>\u00a0in East Jerusalem is a fascinating reminder of British rule under the mandate and has as well a renowned collection of archeological artifacts. \u00a0Now part of the Israel Museum, this museum was custodian of most of the Dead Sea Scrolls for a long time, and to me it feels like the \u201cmuseum that time forgot,\u201d with a decidedly 1930s British feel. \u00a0It even has an old-fashioned card catalogue!\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<strong>Stroll the\u00a0Ben-Yehuda Street Mall\u00a0in the New City near downtown. \u00a0The area offers lots of restaurants, shops, and people watching. \u00a0You may see armed civil guards in the area; don\u2019t worry unless the Israelis look worried. \u00a0Other streets to walk around on include Yoel Salomon and Hillel Street, both off of Ben Yehuda. \u00a0This is where the younger folks hang out, by the way, meaning I don\u2019t much fit in at this point.\u00a0\ud83d\ude0a\u00a0The\u00a0Harmony and Arthur Hotels\u00a0are located in this area, and it\u2019s a 10-minute walk from the\u00a0YMCA or the King David, Eldan,\u00a0or\u00a0David Citadel Hotels.<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you want to delve more into Zionist history,\u00a0<strong>the Museum of Underground Prisoners<\/strong>\u00a0at the old Jerusalem Central Prison from the British Mandate period might be of interest. \u00a0Here, prisoners from the pre-State Jewish undergrounds (Haganah, Etzel\/Irgun, and Lehi\/Stern Gang) were held, and the museum has very interesting tales to tell from the difficult and violent birth of Israel. \u00a0The museum and prison are located at 1 Mishol Ha-G\u2019vura Street, Russian Compound, tel. (02) 623-3166.\u00a0<strong>The Tower of David Museum of the History of Jerusalem.<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This is an excellent look at the extraordinary history of this city. \u00a0It is in the (misnamed) Tower of David just inside the Jaffa Gate. This really helps put what you will see or have seen of Jerusalem in historical context. \u00a0The site is actually a citadel from Herodian times, still plenty old! But it is nowhere near David\u2019s city, which lies outside the present Old City walls. Still, it is one of the best museums in the city. \u00a0Some nights it offers a spectacular light show that you might enjoy\u2014ask for details.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>The Russian Compound.<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a0In the 1800s, various European nations and Americans tried to gain significant holdings in Jerusalem\u2014in fact, guide\u00a0<strong>Madeleine Lavine<\/strong>\u00a0(p. 55-56) offers a fascinating \u201cEurope in Jerusalem\u201d tour that explores this history. \u00a0As part of that, you can tour the holdings of the Russian Orthodox Church along the\u00a0<strong>Street of the Prophets.<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a0Some interesting sites along the way include\u00a0<strong>Bet Sergei<\/strong>, the guesthouse for visiting Russian royalty (now housing the Ministry of Agriculture), and\u00a0<strong>Bet Ticho<\/strong>, a museum housed in the home of two famous Jerusalemites, eye surgeon Avraham Ticho and his painter wife, Anna Ticho. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Bet Ticho has a delightful caf\u00e9 called Anna\u00a0<\/strong>that alone makes it worth a stop (see p. 13), located at 9 Ha-Rav Kook Street, tel. (02) 624-5068 or 624-4186. Be sure to see as well the nearby, circular-shaped\u00a0<strong>Ethiopian Church<\/strong>\u00a0and tour it if you can with one of the gentle and kind priests who serve there. \u00a0Built in 1893 by Emperor Johannes I, it is an island of peaceful reflection in this busy city. \u00a0Be sure to notice the Lions of Judah on the lintel over the entrance\u2014and remember that this community traces its origins to the union of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba, as do the Ethiopian Jews.\u00a0<strong>Bethlehem<\/strong>\u2014only about 12 km south of Jerusalem, if you are so inclined. \u00a0<strong>Sam Salem<\/strong>\u00a0offers tours of Bethlehem, where he is from originally, and he can transport you there as well. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>His contact information is on p. 56. Bethlehem is under the control of the Palestinian Authority, and for that reason Jewish Israeli tour guides cannot get you all the way in (except for a limited number with special permits), and certainly no Jewish cab drivers can do so. \u00a0You can go in with an Arab taxi driver from the Old City or take an Arab bus from the Damascus Gate area. If you take that route, you could also use a Palestinian guide in the city. While in the city, you can have lunch on Manger Square at the\u00a0<strong>Peace Center Restaurant<\/strong>, across from the Church of the Nativity. \u00a0The food is great, the bathrooms spotless, and the view of Manger Square is terrific\u2014especially from the outside terrace area. \u00a0Tel. (02) 275-8122 and (059) 518-7622.<a class=\"gv-tel-link\" title=\"Call +1 0595187622 via Google Voice\" href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10595187622\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10595187622\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a>\u00a0Another option that Sam can set you up with is the\u00a0<strong>Central Restaurant<\/strong>\u00a0operated by George Nassar, tel. (02) 274-4004 or (052) 548-4478.<a href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10525484478\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a>\u00a0\u00a0It is open for dinner or lunch by arrangement, and the food is incredible (and overwhelming, in a good way)!\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Day trip to\u00a0Jericho and Hisham\u2019s Palace\u00a0(now under administration of the Palestinian Authority). \u00a0You could go on your own via Arab drivers or taxis, but\u00a0Sam Salem\u00a0takes people there as well, and I have heard very good reports on his visits to those places. \u00a0Jericho is the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world.\u00a0Herodian and Mar Saba. \u00a0Sam Salem took me to\u00a0Herodian, Herod the Great\u2019s massive summer fortress south of Jerusalem and Bethlehem. \u00a0Herod, the master builder, had this hill topped with an artificial, conical summit and a magnificent palace, and it made the small mountain look like a volcano, which it still does today. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The national park there is quite impressive, and in 2007, Herod\u2019s tomb was found on the site! The tomb was relocated to the Israel Museum for an amazing exhibit on Herod; I believe that parts of it have been put permanent exhibition back at Herodian now that the exhibit has closed. \u00a0Afterwards, we visited\u00a0<strong>Mar Saba<\/strong>\u00a0(pictured at right), a Greek Orthodox monastery built into the cliffs of the Wadi Kidron. \u00a0It is quiet, spectacular, and very peaceful. It is one of Sam\u2019s favorite places.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Talpiot and the Hill of Evil Counsel.<\/strong>This hillside south of Jerusalem was the seat of the British High Commissioner for Palestine during the Mandate period, and his spectacular headquarters, known as Government House, now serves as the United Nations headquarters for the entire Middle East. \u00a0While that building is not open for public touring, the grounds, the promenade, and the overlook are, and offer breathtaking views of the entire city of Jerusalem. The terrifically evocative name listed above comes from the legend that Caiaphas the High Priest had his home here, and that Judas plotted the betrayal of Jesus on this site (and that Jesus\u2019s first trial, at least according to some gospel accounts, was also here). \u00a0This cannot be accurate historically, as the High Priest\u2019s home would never have been outside the city walls, but the name has stuck, at least in common Western or Christian usage. Jews usually just call the region Talpiot, and it is seen as a very desirable neighborhood. It\u2019s also a prime shopping district.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>The National Library of Israel. \u00a0<\/strong>I know, a library? \u00a0Seriously?! Yes, seriously\u2014my tour guide friend\u00a0<strong>Eyal Amos Reuven<\/strong>\u00a0used to work here, and he gave me a tour. \u00a0This is the national library of the Jewish people, and its most stunning feature is one of the largest stained-glass windows in the world. \u00a0The panels are to be read left to right, unlike Hebrew, because most of the world\u2019s languages read that way. \u00a0The blue panel on the left, with colors of peace and calm, show the promise stated in the powerful words of the prophet Isaiah that in later days all the peoples of the world will ascend God\u2019s holy mountain. The words appear in many languages, echoing that promise. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The middle panel, in colors of red and blood, shows how the world has gone terribly wrong. Even the Moon is cleft in two, and the diagram in the center, representing Kabbalistic understandings of God, shows that even the Deity is strained and fractured. At the bottom is the scroll of Isaiah, looking like the walls of Jerusalem and echoing the promise of the first panel, but even that has fractures. \u00a0The final panel shows the coming of peace and reconciliation. The machinery of war is broken into pieces and in its stead are tools of life and growth. \u201cThey shall beat their swords into plowshares and their spears into pruning hooks. Nation shall not lift sword against nation, and neither shall they learn war any more.\u201d In a moving note, in the very lower left, the artist inserted a very small memorial candle because his wife died two months before the work was completed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This stained-glass window is entirely illuminated by natural sunlight. And in the morning, when the Sun hits the windows, apparently the candle shines forth most brilliantly as a memorial of the artist\u2019s beloved wife.\u00a0For a Palestinian Arab perspective on the history of Jerusalem, I recommend\u00a0<strong>the Wujoud Cultural Center and Museum<\/strong>\u00a0on the left side David Street as you enter it from the Jaffa Gate. \u00a0This organization is intended to support the lives and work of Palestinian women and has a small museum dedicated to showing the life of Palestinian Jerusalemites in the 19th\u00a0and early 20th\u00a0Centuries. \u00a0It is located in a building six centuries old from the Mamluk era, and you must make reservations to visit, tel. (02) 626-0916; website\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/fairtourism.info\/packages\/arab-orthodox-society\/\">http:\/\/fairtourism.info\/packages\/arab-orthodox-society\/<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The organization has a frankly one-sided, Palestinian perspective, and for what it is worth, I think this Greek Orthodox-sponsored institution downplays the role that radical Islamist pressure plays in making the lives of Christians here hard. \u00a0But it was still worth a stop to get a different view of this city, which I see as a complex\u2014and beautiful\u2014mosaic of communities and cultures.\u00a0Jerusalem can present sensory and emotional overload. \u00a0Want to find a quiet moment of sacred beauty and spiritual reflection, away from all the noise, bustle, and stress? \u00a0Each day at 3:00 p.m. (except for Sunday) the\u00a0<strong>Armenian Cathedral of St. James\u00a0<\/strong>in the Armenian Quarter, which is not usually open to outsiders beyond the courtyard, opens its doors for a thirty-minute prayer service. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The inside is stunning, filled with silver lamps suspended from the high ceiling, each donated by a different Armenian community. Many of these communities were wiped out by the Ottoman Turks in the Armenian Genocide during World War I; the lamps thus make a haunting memorial of those destroyed communities. \u00a0An Armenian priest in his black vestments and hood says some prayers in the ancient Armenian liturgy, and then the young seminarians file in, in striking black robes with a single, cobalt blue stole draped over the left shoulder. Two at a time, they start singing antiphonal plainchant which echoes through the sanctuary, until suddenly all of them join in from the sides. \u00a0I had met a lovely Texas couple at the YMCA in 2017, and they came with me. At the moment that the sanctuary flooded with song, our eyes flew open in wonder and flooded with tears. It was one of my most beautiful moments in all of my visits to Jerusalem\u2014a chance to hear the holiness of another tradition. Such a privilege!\u00a0Want a break from all the history and religion? <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Check out the\u00a0<strong>Jerusalem Bird Observatory<\/strong>, a delightful island of protected nature near the Knesset. \u00a0The programs for Israeli schoolchildren are extensive and fun to watch, and the managers are passionate about protecting the birds of this region as well as migratory birds. \u00a0Tel. (02) 653-7374 or (052) 386-9488;\u00a0https:\/\/natureisrael.org\/JBO;\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:jbo@inter.net.il\">jbo@inter.net.il<\/a>. \u00a0\u00a0It\u2019s a real (and common) mistake to treat Jerusalem (and Israel in general) as a busy checklist of things to do and see. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Take a break, park yourself in a caf\u00e9 just inside the Jaffa Gate for an hour or so, and just people watch. You\u2019ll see the world go by; I don\u2019t think there is anywhere on Earth with more diversity that here. \u00a0A good spot for that is\u00a0<strong>Samara Restaurant<\/strong>, 23 Jaffa Gate, tel. (02) 628-2050. \u00a0No reservation needed (or likely taken); just have a glass of wine or a beer (Taybeh Palestinian beer is great!) and watch. \u00a0Another option across from the Tower of David Museum (and more coffee-oriented) is\u00a0<strong>Caf\u00e9 Caf\u00e9<\/strong>.\u00a0For another break, tour the wine country of the Judean Hills, particularly with my favorite guide\u00a0<strong>Madeleine Lavine<\/strong>. \u00a0There are many wineries, but I most recommend\u00a0<strong>Ella Valley Vineyards<\/strong>\u00a0in the stunning Judean Hills\u2014the scenery alone is worth the tour. \u00a0But the wines here are excellent, and marketing manager\u00a0<strong>Nevet Nitsan<\/strong>\u00a0was delightful to meet. \u00a0See\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.ellavalley.com\/\">www.ellavalley.com<\/a>\u00a0for more information. \u00a0From the US, one can order their wine from importer Victor Kosher Wines in Hollywood, Florida; contact\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:Florence@victorwines.com\">Florence@victorwines.com<\/a>. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The Ella (or Elah) Valley is where David made his stand against Goliath. \u00a0By the way, not too far from there is\u00a0<strong>Bet Guvrin,\u00a0<\/strong>with its well-known\u00a0<strong>\u201cDig for a Day\u201d<\/strong>\u00a0program. \u00a0Whether or not that is your cup of tea, there are spectacular excavations and the amazing\u00a0<strong>Bell Caves<\/strong>, where ancient miners would punch a hole through hard crust and then excavate massive caves in the shape of bells from the softer, chalk-like rock beneath. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you haven\u2019t had too much wine, all of this is worth a stop!\u00a0<strong>Hebron<\/strong>\u2014one of Judaism\u2019s four holy cities, this ancient town is sacred to Jews, Christians, and Muslims alike as the burial place of the Biblical (and Qur\u2019anic) patriarchs Abraham and Sarah, Isaac and Rebecca, and Jacob and Leah. \u00a0(Rachel\u2019s tomb is in Bethlehem.) Hebron is one of the largest Palestinian cities in what is now known as the West Bank (or Judea, to nationalist Israelis), but there was a Jewish community here for centuries, most of whom were murdered or driven out in the Arab Revolt of 1929. \u00a0In the 1948 War for Independence, this city fell under Jordanian control and it was barred to Jews altogether. With Israeli control since 1967, right-wing settlers set up settlements in downtown Hebron in the 1970s and later founded a nearby Jewish suburb called Kiryat Arba, reviving an ancient name. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The result is a seething stew of religion and politics that has at times exploded in violence. Until the last few years, I would have called it too tense to visit comfortably (Jewish settler groups offered tours in armored buses), but in on two recent trips, I went there with\u00a0<strong>Sam Salem<\/strong>\u00a0and really enjoyed the visit. \u00a0Check on local conditions during your visit to see if it is a good time to go.\u00a0The\u00a0<strong>Cave of the Machpelah (or Cave of the Patriarchs)<\/strong>, known to Muslims as\u00a0<strong>the Sanctuary of Abraham or the Ibrahimi Mosque<\/strong>,\u00a0is shared (uneasily) by Jews and Muslims on a rotational basis; this is the site of those sacred biblical tombs, revered by all three Abrahamic faiths. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The building (at right) is a Herodian structure from the Second Temple period, with echoes of the Temple\u2019s own architecture and design, making it interesting for another reason altogether. \u00a0The cave was also where in 1994 Dr. Baruch Goldstein, an American-born physician and Israeli settler, brutally murdered 29 Palestinian Muslim men at prayer, nearly derailing the peace process and horrifying the world, including all decent Israelis. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Like the Passover Massacre of 2002, where a Palestinian suicide-bomber murdered 30 members of Jewish families at a Passover Seder at the Park Hotel in Netanya, these horrible events show how \u201creligious\u201d extremists will murder people and try to kill the very hope of peace in the name of an evil perversion of faith. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This should be a site where all people who call Abraham their father can worship in peace. God willing, one day it will be. As noted above, Hebron has been a focal point of disturbances at times, so I do not recommend that you visit Hebron on your own\u2014go with a guide or a tour. I also suggest you avoid the right-wing Jewish settler tours from the Hebron community or the Palestinian \u201calternative\u201d tours (such as Green Olive), both of which offer one-sided political indoctrination with their tours, in my view. \u00a0Instead, I recommend\u00a0<strong>Sam Salem<\/strong>\u00a0who, while Palestinian, brings a balanced and respectful approach to the visit reflecting the perspectives of all three faith communities. There\u00a0are Jewish guides who would also do a great job, with similar balance\u2014but check carefully if you want to avoid political lectures. \u00a0Another great option is\u00a0<strong>Abraham Hostel\u2019s<\/strong>\u00a0dual perspective tours of Hebron, where you will hear from Palestinian and Jewish resident guides. \u00a0\u00a0<em>See<\/em><a href=\"http:\/\/abrahamtours.com\/\">http:\/\/abrahamtours.com<\/a>. \u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Under pressure from militant Jewish settlers and the IDF trying to keep peace between them and Palestinian militants, the shopkeepers and merchants of Hebron have suffered a great deal economically. \u00a0Hebron is renowned particularly for its glass-making, and any guide can show you some good shopping options. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>But I really loved one that\u00a0<strong>Sam Salem\u00a0<\/strong>took me to:\u00a0<strong>Abed\u2019s Shop<\/strong>, also known as\u00a0<strong>The Checkpoint Shop<\/strong>, so nicknamed for its proximity to an IDF checkpoint on Shahada Street, which separates Jewish settlers returning from worship at the Machpelah from the Palestinian vendors on the Arab main street. \u00a0Abed Elmuhtaseb owns the last Palestinian shop to stay open on this street; if he closes (and he was offered a rumored million dollars to sell out), the street will likely be closed to Palestinians altogether. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It is easily found opposite the Gutnick Centre in the square just down the hill from the Ibrahimi Mosque (close to the Tomb of the Patriarchs), and is only meters from the checkpoint; locals actually call it \u201cAbed\u2019s Checkpoint\u201d because it\u2019s so close. Abed and his son Mohammed (who speaks\u00a0<em>excellent\u00a0<\/em>English) sell good quality glass, embroidery, pottery, and (very) cold drinks. Sitting outside on plastic chairs enjoying Abed\u2019s mint-tea (and jokes) is perhaps the best people watching spot in Hebron. \u00a0Also note that Abed\u2019s wife occasionally cooks makloubeh for guests, and\u00a0<strong>Sam Salem<\/strong>\u00a0can arrange this. \u00a0Each person can pay about \u20aa50-60 for a meal. \u00a0Abed\u2019s cell phone is (059) 923-2785.<a class=\"gv-tel-link\" title=\"Call +1 0599232785 via Google Voice\" href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10599232785\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10599232785\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a>\u00a0We purchased some lovely vases and decorative tile work, the prices were reasonable with a great selection, and they ship. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Expect to bargain. Please stop in and spend some time and money. You\u2019ll get some memorable keepsakes, and these folks will get business they very much need to survive\u2014they depend on international visitors. \u00a0Look, this is not about taking sides in the complex religious and political conflicts that tear at this holy but divided city. Both sides have made terrible blunders here, and many who live here have suffered terribly. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There is grief and blame enough to go around. It is about helping good people who are caught in the metaphorical crossfire.\u00a0Finally, as always, I have some restaurant recommendations in Jerusalem. \u00a0The restaurant scene in Jerusalem is a far cry from my unremarkable dining experiences in early visits\u2014one can eat\u00a0<em>very<\/em>\u00a0well indeed in this city now!\u00a0One of the loveliest, hideaway caf\u00e9s and bookstores in the city is\u00a0<strong>Tmol Shilshom<\/strong>\u00a0at 5 Yoel Solomon Street, in the courtyard upstairs behind this address, tel. (02) 623-2758,\u00a0http:\/\/www.tmol-shilshom.co.il\/en\/home-page\/, e-mail at\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:info@tmol-shilshom.co.il\">info@tmol-shilshom.co.il<\/a>. \u00a0It is a gathering place for Jerusalemites of all kinds\u2014it is both a popular gathering place for gay people, and a favored first-date site for Orthodox Jewish couples.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>That kind of diversity in Jerusalem is sadly rare. The bookstore used to have bookmarks from all over the world pinned up on the wall. In a late 1990s visit, I was stunned to notice a bookmark from a local bookstore in Cincinnati pinned right over my husband\u2019s head! \u00a0There are also readings, concerts, and other events here, and you can check on what is happening during your visit at the web site above.\u00a0The restaurant is kosher, the food is excellent, and the atmosphere unique. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It is one of my favorite restaurants in the city. Say \u201cshalom\u201d to owner\u00a0<strong>David Ehrlich<\/strong>\u00a0for me!\u00a0A terrific and innovate upscale choice is\u00a0<strong>Eucalyptus<\/strong>\u00a0at 14 Hativat Yirushalayim, tel. (02) 624-4331,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.the-eucalyptus.com\/\">www.the-eucalyptus.com<\/a>\/welcome, e-mail\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:info@the-eucalyptus.com\">info@the-eucalyptus.com<\/a>. \u00a0Under the stewardship of renowned Israeli chef-owner\u00a0<strong>Moshe Basson<\/strong>, the restaurant features ingredients from the Land of Israel, often from the biblical era, prepared in fresh and inspired ways. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The atmosphere is fun and festive, and the food impeccable. Some orders may result in a big show coming out of the kitchen! And just so you know, the tasting menu is wonderful\u2014but huge! \u00a0If you go that route, get the smallest one. This is my current favorite for an upscale night out\u2014it is a special place for a special meal (we celebrated my friend Gina\u2019s birthday there on my 2012 trip). \u00a0Be sure to take the address and phone number with you and tell the taxi driver that the restaurant is below Jaffa Gate in the Artists\u2019 Quarter, a development of shops and apartments\u2014it can be tricky to find. \u00a0Eucalyptus is kosher and, of course, closed on Friday evening.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The\u00a0<strong>Archibald C. Harte International Restaurant<\/strong>\u00a0at the Jerusalem YMCA, 26 King David Street is back as a contender, with good food and drink with excellent service at a reasonable price, and the seating on the terrace across from the King David Hotel, with its views of the gorgeous YMCA Tower and palm trees swaying in the breeze\u2014well, it makes my heart full to bursting just to think about it. \u00a0Tel. (02) 569-2692; not kosher.\u00a0<strong>Angelica\u2019s<\/strong>\u00a0is a very fine, kosher restaurant practically next door to the YMCA, at 4 George Washington, tel. (02) 623-0056, \u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.angelicarest.com\/\">https:\/\/www.angelicarest.com<\/a>. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This is an outstanding restaurant, quite upscale, with excellent food, wine, and service.\u00a0Another good place close to the YMCA and King David Hotel is\u00a0<strong>the Olive and Fish<\/strong>, a kosher fish and meat restaurant at 2 Jabotinsky Street not far off King David Street, tel. (02) 566-5020,\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:oliveandfish@gmail.com\">oliveandfish@gmail.com<\/a>. \u00a0It offers tasty food at reasonable prices and is very popular.\u00a0Looking for coffee? \u00a0Coffee shops have sprung up everywhere in Israel it seems, and my favorite chain is\u00a0<strong>Caf\u00e9 Aroma<\/strong>, found nearly everywhere but including in the Ben Yehuda District. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I am pleased to say that Starbucks failed in Israel\u2014give an Israeli shop a try, and enjoy some fine coffee with your wi-fi or book!\u00a0<strong>Piccolino<\/strong>\u00a0is located in the Ben-Yehuda district at 12 Yoel Moshe Salomon Street, tel. (02) 624-4186; e-mail at\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:nava@piccolino.co.il\">nava@piccolino.co.il<\/a>;\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.piccolino.co.il\/\">www.piccolino.co.il<\/a>. \u00a0It is a kosher fish and dairy restaurant, and the dishes were excellent. \u00a0I recommend it.\u00a0There are dozens of wonderful places to eat in Jerusalem\u2019s amazing\u00a0<strong>Mehane Yehuda<\/strong>\u00a0market, an open-air collection of stalls selling everything imaginable and giving visitors a real flavor of Israeli life. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There are caf\u00e9s, restaurants, pizza, hummus, and falafel stalls, and great wine shops. But a recent innovation is a very fun experience, what is being called\u00a0<strong>After Market<\/strong>\u00a0on Saturday evenings after the end of Shabbat, when many restaurants and bars in the market open for late night partying crowds. \u00a0We discovered this as the guest of\u00a0<strong>Eyal Amos Reuven<\/strong>\u00a0before he was a guide (he was \u201cguiding\u201d even then!), and what a delightful time!\u00a0Speaking of the Mahane Yehuda market area,\u00a0<strong>Jacko\u2019s Street<\/strong>\u00a0in the Mahane Yehuda market is a wonderful, kosher choice. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I loved this place! 74 Agrippas Street, tel. (02) 581-7178. \u00a0<strong>Eyal Amos Reuven<\/strong>\u00a0also took me to\u00a0<strong>Ishtebach<\/strong>, a much less formal place with counter seating and a few tables, offering a stuffed Kurdish pastry that you can fill with everything from brisket to Syrian kebobs to chorizo. \u00a0Yum\u2014it was a fantastic, informal option! Ishtebach is located at 1 Shikma Street, tel. (02) 623-2997. For more information,\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/theculturetrip.com\/middle-east\/israel\/articles\/ishtabach-a-restaurant-that-feels-like-home\/\">https:\/\/theculturetrip.com\/middle-east\/israel\/articles\/ishtabach-a-restaurant-that-feels-like-home\/<\/a>. \u00a0There are many other dining options in the market, a booming scene.\u00a0Not far from there, on a recent visit I tried\u00a0<strong>Link<\/strong>\u00a0at 3 Ha-Ma\u2019alot Street, tel. (02) 625-3446;\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.2eat.co.il\/eng\/link\/\">www.2eat.co.il\/eng\/link\/<\/a>. \u00a0It\u2019s an easy walk from the center city hotels. \u00a0I had the sea bream (Denis fish in Hebrew) and a way-too-large Arab salad of chopped vegetables, croutons, and tahini sauce. Yum! It\u2019s not kosher if you need that. The restaurant also had decent cocktails, not always a strong point in Israeli restaurants. \u00a0It\u2019s a very popular place on weekends (open for Shabbat), so book a reservation.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The German Colony area of Jerusalem, not far south of the King David Street area with its many hotels, is a delightful neighborhood to explore. There are quite a few restaurants in that area. But the best bet in that area is Jerusalem\u2019s\u00a0<strong>First Station<\/strong>, a whole complex of new shops, galleries, restaurants, and entertainment venues built around the old Ottoman-era train station. \u00a0It\u2019s amazing\u2014and really shatters Jerusalem\u2019s old image as Tel Aviv\u2019s dowdy older sister! My favorite restaurant there is\u00a0<strong>Ha-Sadna, the Culinary Workshop<\/strong>, located at 28 Hebron Road, tel. (02) 567-2265;\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.hasadna.rest-e.co.il\/\">www.hasadna.rest-e.co.il<\/a>. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I loved this place\u2014felt like a funky, Manhattan eatery. (Not kosher.) Brett really enjoyed it too, though\u2014as is common at fun, funky places\u2014the music was a tad loud for our tastes.\u00a0<strong>Te\u2019enim (Figs)<\/strong>\u00a0in the Zionist Confederation House behind the King David is an inexpensive, charming vegetarian place, small with a spectacular view of the Old City, particularly when the walls are floodlit at night. It is located at 12 Emile Botta Street (well back from the street down a path), Yemin Moshe, Tel. (02) 625-1967,\u00a0http:\/\/www.gojerusalem.com\/items\/643\/Teenim-Restaurant\/. \u00a0We had a TripAdvisor dinner in a private room there and were not disappointed. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If Patrick is there that night, tell him\u2014you guessed it!\u2014\u201cshalom\u201d for me (his wife is delightful too!). \u00a0As a vegetarian place, Te\u2019enim is kosher. Look for the sign off on the right side of Emile Botta as you face the Old City walls, and then follow the path; the sign is small and easy to miss.\u00a0I mentioned\u00a0<strong>Bet Ticho<\/strong>\u00a0in the touring section, but I have to mention a new dining option,\u00a0<strong>the Anna Restaurant at Bet Ticho<\/strong>, which offers terrific food at a reasonable price in a lovely, art gallery setting. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The restaurant has been moved upstairs (I\u2019ll miss the outdoor setting of its predecessor), and it is located at 9 Ha-Rav Kook Street off the Street of the Prophets, tel. (02) 624-4186. \u00a0It just reopened to good reviews after a renovation, and I hope to try it again on a future visit.\u00a0A beautiful rooftop restaurant with stunning views of the Old City can be found at the\u00a0<strong>Notre Dame of Jerusalem Center\u2019s Wine &amp; Cheese Restaurant.<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a0This is far more than a wine and cheese place; the menu is extensive. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This restaurant in the Vatican-owned complex is open daily, including Shabbat, and of course is not kosher. \u00a0I really enjoyed my meal there, with beautiful views of the Old City. Tel. (02) 627-9177;\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.notredamecenter.org\/\">www.notredamecenter.org<\/a>. \u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you are interested in experiencing North African cuisine, you might try\u00a0<strong>Darna<\/strong>, a well-known (and fairly expensive) Moroccan restaurant. \u00a0Darna is located at 3 Horkanos Street, tel. (02) 624-5406, e-mail:\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:il@darna.co.il\">il@darna.co.il<\/a>; see website at\u00a0https:\/\/darna.co.il\/en\/.\u00a0Want to try the best hummus and falafel in the Old City? \u00a0Just asking this question will set off a war, but I will assert author\u2019s privilege and tell you to go to\u00a0<strong>Lina\u2019s Restaurant<\/strong>\u00a0in the Christian Quarter, 42 Al Khanka Street near the intersection with Via Dolorosa, tel. (02) 627-7230. \u00a0Many swear by Abu Shukri, and the food is indeed good, but I found the service indifferent and even unfriendly (maybe to non-Palestinians?). \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Lina\u2019s is great, they smile at you, and Madeleine the guide loves it, which seals the deal for me. We bought lunch there and took it to have lunch at the\u00a0<strong>Josef Natsheh Emporium<\/strong>\u2014a perfect combination! \u00a0Ask Yousef when you stop by; maybe he will let you do the same. \u00a0You buy lunch; he\u2019ll give you some coffee or mint tea. But get your hummus fix\u00a0<em>here<\/em>!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"My_Favorite_Place_in_the_Old_City\"><\/span>My Favorite Place in the Old City<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>I have given you a lot of options, but I end with\u00a0<strong>a true favorite.<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a0You will be walking a lot in the Old City, and there are a hundred places to stop for a drink and a bite to eat within those walls. \u00a0<strong>But above them all, I recommend an Armenian restaurant and lounge called\u00a0Bulghourji\u00a0<\/strong>at 6 Armenian Patriarchate Road, tel. (02) 628-2072 or (052) 628-2080,<a class=\"gv-tel-link\" title=\"Call +1 0526282080 via Google Voice\" href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10526282080\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10526282080\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a>\u00a0e-mail\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:bulghourji@hotmail.com\">bulghourji@hotmail.com<\/a>. \u00a0After you come in the Jaffa Gate, turn right past the Tower of David and the post office and police station, and continue down the Armenian Patriarchate Road. \u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You will pass the Armenian Tavern on your left (also reputed to be a good place, but this is not where I am sending you). This place is a little further on the right, with yellow shutters. \u00a0The owner\u00a0<strong>Naro<\/strong>\u00a0is such a wonderful man; a lot of Jerusalemites just call it \u201cNaro\u2019s Place.\u201d \u00a0You will see he runs a great restaurant, and the staff is terrific as well. Have a sandwich, some hummus with fresh pita to die for, or a delicious Armenian pizza. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Drink some Taybeh (Palestinian) beer, wine, or refreshing lemonade with mint. Want a real kick? Try some arak, the Middle Eastern, anise-based liquor that is like Greek ouzo. \u00a0Naro has a lovely, open courtyard in back and has opened a \u201cVIP club\u201d (lounge) downstairs. In a city full of great restaurants, I often eat there more than once, and that tells you something about the lovely, warm atmosphere Naro has created. \u00a0And the bathrooms are sparking clean, some of the best in the Old City! That is an unbeatable combo.\u00a0That wraps up my personal guide. \u00a0I do hope that you found it helpful. \u00a0Now that you have read it, I would be happy to try to answer any other questions you may have. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Happy and safe travels to you, or as Israelis would say, \u201cnesiya tova!\u201d (Bon voyage!)\u00a0Douglas E. Duckett\u00a0Cincinnati, Ohio, USA\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:Labatt@fuse.net\">Labatt@fuse.net<\/a>\u00a0\u00a92004-2019 Douglas E. Duckett, All rights reserved.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>By Douglas E. Duckett Jerusalem\u2014The Holy City\u00a0Suggested Time: \u00a06 to 7 nights Why did I allocate so much time to Jerusalem? \u00a0Because Jerusalem is the heart and soul of Israel and the Jewish people, and perhaps the most emotionally and spiritually (as well as politically) charged place on Earth. \u00a0The ancients thought that Jerusalem was [&#8230;]\n","protected":false},"author":586,"featured_media":200576,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[36483],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-200574","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-israel"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>A Personal Travel Guide To Israel: Jerusalem - The Holy City &#8211; Zman Online Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/zmanmekomi.com\/en\/a-personal-travel-guide-to-israel-jerusalem-the-holy-city\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"A Personal Travel Guide To Israel: Jerusalem - The Holy City &#8211; Zman Online Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"By Douglas E. 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