{"id":200523,"date":"2019-02-07T16:50:54","date_gmt":"2019-02-07T21:50:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/zmanmekomi.com\/?p=200523"},"modified":"2023-09-19T18:49:00","modified_gmt":"2023-09-19T15:49:00","slug":"a-personal-travel-guide-to-israel-tel-aviv","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zmanmekomi.com\/en\/a-personal-travel-guide-to-israel-tel-aviv\/","title":{"rendered":"A Personal Travel Guide To Israel: Tel Aviv"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>By Douglas E. Duckett<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div id=\"ez-toc-container\" class=\"ez-toc-v2_0_82_2 counter-hierarchy ez-toc-counter ez-toc-light-blue ez-toc-container-direction\">\n<div class=\"ez-toc-title-container\">\n<p class=\"ez-toc-title\" style=\"cursor:inherit\">Table of Contents<\/p>\n<span class=\"ez-toc-title-toggle\"><a href=\"#\" class=\"ez-toc-pull-right ez-toc-btn ez-toc-btn-xs ez-toc-btn-default ez-toc-toggle\" aria-label=\"Toggle Table of Content\"><span class=\"ez-toc-js-icon-con\"><span class=\"\"><span class=\"eztoc-hide\" style=\"display:none;\">Toggle<\/span><span class=\"ez-toc-icon-toggle-span\"><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" class=\"list-377408\" width=\"20px\" height=\"20px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" fill=\"none\"><path d=\"M6 6H4v2h2V6zm14 0H8v2h12V6zM4 11h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2zM4 16h2v2H4v-2zm16 0H8v2h12v-2z\" fill=\"currentColor\"><\/path><\/svg><svg style=\"fill: #999;color:#999\" class=\"arrow-unsorted-368013\" xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" width=\"10px\" height=\"10px\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" version=\"1.2\" baseProfile=\"tiny\"><path d=\"M18.2 9.3l-6.2-6.3-6.2 6.3c-.2.2-.3.4-.3.7s.1.5.3.7c.2.2.4.3.7.3h11c.3 0 .5-.1.7-.3.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7zM5.8 14.7l6.2 6.3 6.2-6.3c.2-.2.3-.5.3-.7s-.1-.5-.3-.7c-.2-.2-.4-.3-.7-.3h-11c-.3 0-.5.1-.7.3-.2.2-.3.5-.3.7s.1.5.3.7z\"\/><\/svg><\/span><\/span><\/span><\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<nav><ul class='ez-toc-list ez-toc-list-level-1 ' ><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-1\" href=\"https:\/\/zmanmekomi.com\/en\/a-personal-travel-guide-to-israel-tel-aviv\/#The_%E2%80%9CWhite_City%E2%80%9D_and_The_Heart_of_Modern_Israel_Suggested_Time_3_nights\" >The \u201cWhite City\u201d and&nbsp;The Heart of Modern Israel Suggested Time: &nbsp;3 nights<\/a><\/li><li class='ez-toc-page-1 ez-toc-heading-level-2'><a class=\"ez-toc-link ez-toc-heading-2\" href=\"https:\/\/zmanmekomi.com\/en\/a-personal-travel-guide-to-israel-tel-aviv\/#Old_Jaffa\" >Old Jaffa. \u00a0<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/nav><\/div>\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"The_%E2%80%9CWhite_City%E2%80%9D_and_The_Heart_of_Modern_Israel_Suggested_Time_3_nights\"><\/span>The \u201cWhite City\u201d and&nbsp;The Heart of Modern Israel<br>Suggested Time: &nbsp;3 nights<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Tel Aviv is Israel\u2019s New York (one of its nicknames is \u201cthe Big Orange\u201d) and at first glance can seem like any other big city on the sea. \u00a0But it is the heart of modern Israel, \u201cthe capital of Mediterranean cool,\u201d and I have come to truly treasure it. If New York and Miami Beach had a love child, it would look a lot like Tel Aviv! \u00a0Also, if you start in Tel Aviv, which I recommend, you will have a couple of days to recover from a long flight and jet lag without feeling like you\u2019re missing the must-see historical sites. Some good, on-line resources for planning your Tel Aviv stay include\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.visit-tel-aviv.com\/\">www.visit-tel-aviv.com<\/a>. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Tel Aviv is also the center of gay and lesbian life in Israel<\/strong>, and LGBT visitors should check out\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.lgbt.org.il\/english\"><strong>https:\/\/www.lgbt.org.il\/english<\/strong><\/a><strong>\u00a0for information gay life in Tel Aviv and throughout Israel. \u00a0<\/strong>Another site is\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.travelgay.com\/destination\/gay-israel\/gay-tel-aviv\">https:\/\/www.travelgay.com\/destination\/gay-israel\/gay-tel-aviv<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tel Aviv has many great hotels but prepare for the fact that Tel Aviv hotels are the most expensive in the country (with lots of business travelers as well as tourists). &nbsp;You can save money by staying in mid-range hotels, not the 5-star places. Again,&nbsp;<strong>work with Regent Tours<\/strong>&nbsp;to find affordable options; see \u201c<a href=\"https:\/\/zmanmekomi.com\/en\/2019\/02\/03\/a-personal-travel-guide-to-israel-finding-a-place-to-stay\/\">Booking Hotels<\/a>\u201d&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I have several recommendations for hotels in Tel Aviv. \u00a0I have enjoyed the\u00a0<strong>Herods Tel Aviv<\/strong>\u00a0located at 155 Ha-Yarkon Street, tel. (03) 521-6666; see\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.herods-hotels.com\/herods-tel-aviv\">www.herods-hotels.com\/herods-tel-aviv<\/a>.It is a large hotel with a classic 1930s Tel Aviv look, offering good service and nice guest rooms. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The reviews of late have been more mixed\u2014the place needs some paint and more attention to upkeep. This hotel is in the more northern part of the city, close to the Old Port area, and it directly overlooks the beach. (And I didn\u2019t forget the apostrophe in \u201cHerods,\u201d by the way\u2014it is omitted for reasons I cannot fathom. As someone who is a stickler for the proper grammar and punctuation, this drives me a tad crazy.) Next door is the\u00a0<strong>Crowne Plaza Tel Aviv Beach<\/strong>, 145 Ha-Yarkon Street, tel. (03) 520-1111, at which I stayed for my most recent visit. \u00a0It\u2019s clean, upscale, and well-maintained with an outstanding breakfast, but it is a Western-style hotel without much local color or character.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you\u2019d like to try a lovely option nearby, I recommend the\u00a0<strong>Shalom &amp; Relax Hotel<\/strong>, an Atlas boutique hotel that gets rave reviews on TripAdvisor. \u00a0It\u2019s a little pricier that some other boutique options and is located at 216 Ha-Yarkon Street, (03) 762-5400;\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.atlas.co.il\/shalom-hotel-tel-aviv\">www.atlas.co.il\/shalom-hotel-tel-aviv<\/a>. The hotel is quite nice but what makes it remarkable is its outstanding and very attentive staff. \u00a0Next door is the\u00a0<strong>Melody Hotel<\/strong>\u00a0at 220 Ha-Yarkon Street, tel. (03) 521-5300; see\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.atlas.co.il\/melody-hotel-tel-aviv\">www.atlas.co.il\/melody-hotel-tel-aviv<\/a>, another well-run and stylish boutique hotel of the Atlas chain. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Both hotels offer a great location across from Independence Park, a short walk from the beach, and an easy walk to the port area. \u00a0If street noise is an issue, get a room in the back or a higher floor. Both the Shalom &amp; Relax and the Melody offer snacks and wine from 5:00 to 7:00 p.m., a nice way to meet other guests. \u00a0Another favorite in more moderate range is the\u00a0<strong>Savoy Hotel<\/strong>, a smaller, boutique-style hotel located more in south-central Tel Aviv and closer to Jaffa at 5 Ge\u2019ula Street, tel. (03) 514-0500; \u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/hotelsavoy.co.il\/\">http:\/\/hotelsavoy.co.il<\/a>. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This hotel has a charming, sleek, modern look, with spectacular views off the balconies and great customer service. \u00a0It is a half-block off the beach, and while the neighborhood is not great, the location is outstanding.\u00a0Other moderate-range options include the\u00a0<strong>Cinema Hotel<\/strong>\u00a0at 1 Zanemhoff Street, tel. (03) 520-7100, or across the street at the\u00a0<strong>Center Hotel<\/strong>\u00a0at 2 Zanemhoff Street, tel. (03) 629-6181. \u00a0Both are on Dizengoff Square, in the heart of Tel Aviv, and are renovated Bauhaus-architecture buildings, for which Tel Aviv is world-renowned as \u201cThe White City.\u201d \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Noise may be an issue there; ask for back rooms away from the square. I also hear good things about the\u00a0<strong>Art-Plus Hotel<\/strong>,\u00a0<strong>Brown Beach Hotel<\/strong>, and the\u00a0<strong>Hotel de la Mer<\/strong>. \u00a0Regent Tours works with all these hotels; ask for quotes. \u00a0Finally, for a more budget option for lodging in Tel Aviv, check out the recently opened\u00a0<strong>Abraham Hostel<\/strong>; the one in Jerusalem has received great reviews from travelers for years. \u00a0See\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.abrahamhostels.com\/\">www.abrahamhostels.com<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>All these hotels are very close to the beach, and within easy walking distance of a lot of interesting places. &nbsp;On the more expensive side, people also like the&nbsp;<strong>Hilton<\/strong>&nbsp;(also on Ha-Yarkon, next to Independence Park), or the beachfront&nbsp;<strong>Sheraton<\/strong>. &nbsp;There is also a&nbsp;<strong>Carlton Hotel<\/strong>&nbsp;on the sea shore and the&nbsp;<strong>David Intercontinental<\/strong>&nbsp;and the&nbsp;<strong>Dan Panorama Hotel<\/strong>&nbsp;closer to Jaffa. &nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Frommer\u2019s and other guidebooks offer good suggestions on things to do in Tel Aviv, so I commend those to you. &nbsp;You can also find suggestions on TripAdvisor. I have some personal recommendations, though:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span class=\"ez-toc-section\" id=\"Old_Jaffa\"><\/span><strong>Old Jaffa<\/strong>. \u00a0<span class=\"ez-toc-section-end\"><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>This 5,000-year-old city is now part of the combined municipality of Tel Aviv-Yafo, and looking south from Tel Aviv, you will see the old Arab city jutting out into the Mediterranean. \u00a0Jaffa has many artists\u2019 shops, narrow streets, and lots of character. I don\u2019t shop much on Israel trips, but Jaffa is a good place for that. In any event, it\u2019s a wonderful place to explore. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The view of the Tel Aviv skyline from Jaffa is magical, both day and night (see photo on p. 23). There are free walking tours of Jaffa offered by Sandeman\u2019s every day at 11:00 a.m.; meet at the Ministry of Information Center at Mazouk and Azar Streets under the arches near the old Clock Tower at the entrance to Jaffa. \u00a0The tour offers a good overview of the ancient city; while there is no charge, plan to tip the guide around \u20aa50 per person. For more information, check out the Sandeman Tours\u2019 website at\u00a0http:\/\/www.neweuropetours.eu\/telaviv\/en\/home.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Strolling the Streets of Tel Aviv<\/strong>.\u00a0\u00a0One choice is\u00a0<strong>Dizengoff Street<\/strong>, once famous as the \u201cmain street\u201d of Israel, and after some years of decline it seems to be coming back. \u00a0You can also walk down\u00a0<strong>Ben-Yehuda<\/strong>\u00a0and\u00a0<strong>Allenby Streets<\/strong>\u00a0to\u00a0<strong>Sheinkin Street<\/strong>, Tel Aviv\u2019s yuppie district (not as cool as it once was). \u00a0You can also wander down to\u00a0<strong>Ha-Carmel Market<\/strong>, where you\u2019ll really see \u201cstreet Israel,\u201d a great place to watch people and drink in the sights, sounds, and smells of food and spices. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The\u00a0<strong>Nahalat Binyamin<\/strong>\u00a0neighborhood offers arts and crafts markets on Tuesdays and Fridays, which can fun to explore (though crafts aren\u2019t my thing). \u00a0I really love walking through that neighborhood and nearby\u00a0<strong>Neve Tzekek<\/strong>, though; these are among Tel Aviv\u2019s first neighborhoods, and the restorations have made this a great place to stroll, people watch, and take a drink or coffee. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nearby is\u00a0<strong>Ha-Tachana,\u00a0<\/strong>or\u00a0<strong>The Station<\/strong>, the\u00a0renovation of an old, Ottoman-era train station into shops and restaurants. \u00a0One of my favorite spots in all Israel is\u00a0<strong>The<\/strong>\u00a0<strong>Rubin Museum<\/strong>\u00a0at 14 Bialik Street, which features the beautiful and evocative paintings of Reuben Rubin, one of Israel\u2019s greatest artists, in his charming, former home. \u00a0Tel. (03) 525-5961. Open Shabbat 11:00 a.m.-2:00 p.m., but closed on Sundays, which is unusual. This museum is a little gem, and this man\u2019s art absolutely captures me.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Sarona.<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a0This is the renovated German Colony district in Tel Aviv, a real success story in historic restoration, and it is sleek and full of trendy, upscale shops. \u00a0I write more about the German Templers later in this guide, but I found this place rather sterile and Disneyesque (not intended as a compliment). But it\u2019s much-needed green space in the heart of the city for locals, and if you do go, the Visitor\u2019s Center is at 14 Avraham Mendler Street, (054) 498-0252.<a class=\"gv-tel-link\" title=\"Call +1 0544980252 via Google Voice\" href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10544980252\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10544980252\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a>\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Note: \u00a0<\/strong>If you want to tour and are not part of a pre-arranged group, you\u00a0<strong><em>must<\/em><\/strong>\u00a0make reservations ahead of time, or you find this Visitors\u2019 Center not very hospitable to visitors (part of why I am not a fan of Sarona). \u00a0While there, get some fine Jem\u2019s Beer or the beverage of your choice at\u00a0<strong>Molly Bloom\u2019s Sarona<\/strong>, an Irish pub at 6 Avraham Mendler Street, (055) 886-0188.<a href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10558860188\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a>\u00a0\u00a0I\u2019m not much for pubs, but this is a good one.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\" id=\"attachment_200529\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"860\" height=\"645\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/zmanmekomi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/building-950617_1280-e1549576652378.jpg?resize=860%2C645&amp;ssl=1\" alt=\"Tel Aviv\" class=\"wp-image-200529\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Tel Aviv<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Walking Tours of Tel Aviv.<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a0Tel Aviv is a flat and easily walkable city, and one of the best ways to explore it is on foot. \u00a0I have three recommendations for guides\u2014the first is\u00a0<strong>Jonathan (Yonatan) Kohn<\/strong>. He is absolutely outstanding and now ranks as one of my favorite guides in the whole country. \u00a0I suggest the tour that he showed me\u2014start with Old Jaffa and explore Neve Tzedek, Ha-Tachana, and into the Bauhaus District, and other parts of early and current Tel Aviv, such as the renovated\u00a0<strong>Ha-Bima Theater<\/strong>\u00a0and magnificent, adjoining public square. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This gives you the chance to see how this amazing city evolved in just over a hundred years from buildings started on sand dunes by just 66 families in 1909 to the thriving metropolis of today. \u00a0We ended with a visit to the moving, evocative\u00a0<strong>Rabin Square<\/strong>, where Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin was assassinated in November 1995\u2014and Jonathan was there that night.\u00a0You<strong>\u00a0can contact Jonathan at (054) 554-3448; e-mail\u00a0<\/strong><a href=\"mailto:jonskohn@hotmail.com\"><strong>jonskohn@hotmail.com<\/strong><\/a><strong>.<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>While Jonathan offers Tel Aviv walking tours, he is also licensed to tour anywhere in the country, including driving tourists. \u00a0Another guide who tours all over Israel but has a special passion for this \u201ccapital of Mediterranean cool\u201d is\u00a0<strong>David Wexler,\u00a0<\/strong><a href=\"mailto:david@davidsland.com\"><strong>david@davidsland.com<\/strong><\/a><strong>;\u00a0<\/strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.davidsland.com\/\"><strong>www.davidsland.com<\/strong><\/a><strong>; cell (054) 330-0941<a class=\"gv-tel-link\" title=\"Call +1 0543300941 via Google Voice\" href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10543300941\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10543300941\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a><\/strong>. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>David knows his stuff and is pleasant to be with as well. \u00a0I have also toured with\u00a0<strong>Zahi (pronounced Tsakhi) Shaked,<\/strong>\u00a0a native-born Tel Avivi, and my husband and I enjoyed that a lot; we toured much the same route as I listed above for Yonatan. \u00a0You can reach Zahi at (054) 690-5522\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10546905522\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a>or at\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:zahigo@walla.com\">zahigo@walla.com<\/a>. \u00a0He is a terrific guide, and he often makes brief videos of portions of the tour that he posts (with your permission) on YouTube\u2014a lovely memento! \u00a0To see our video from the 2016 trip, check this out:\u00a0https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/playlist?list=PLk3tL9beKyZAd1ZoA6kdl33AAi1oMO_Ns.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At the outset of the section of the guide, I called Tel Aviv \u201cThe White City,\u201d and it takes this name from the\u00a0<strong>Bauhaus and International architecture<\/strong>\u00a0style that this city preserves more than any other in the world, leading to its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. \u00a0This style was popular among German planners and architects who fled to Tel Aviv in the 1930s to escape Nazi persecution, and this was the period when much of the city was built. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The design of the buildings and the city itself feels very European, with wide boulevards, horizontal designs, angular and curving lines, and white stucco surfaces, also reminiscent of the Art Deco style in Miami Beach. \u00a0What were once run-down and dowdy neighborhoods have been restored beautifully in places, and you can walk through them and enjoy some amazing buildings. The best streets to see it are Ahad Ha\u2019am and Rothschild Boulevards. \u00a0The\u00a0<strong>Bauhaus Center<\/strong>\u00a0at 99 Dizengoff Street, (03) 522-0249,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.bauhaus-center.com\/\">www.bauhaus-center.com<\/a>, offers audio or guided walking tours of the Bauhaus district if you want a more detailed look.<strong>2-<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>3-5220249&nbsp;<\/strong><a href=\"mailto:info@bauhaus-center.com?subject=Contact%20from%20Bauhaus%20website\"><strong>info@bauhaus-center.com<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Bet Ha-t\u2019fusot<\/strong>, the Nahum Goldmann Museum of the Diaspora on the campus of Tel Aviv University. &nbsp;If you are interested in Jewish history in the Diaspora (exile), this is a must. It is one of the most interesting museums I have been in, not based on artifacts but on re-creations of Diaspora life throughout the world. &nbsp;The university is in the northern section of the city, either a bus, cab, or car ride from your hotel. Tel. (03) 745-7808; see also&nbsp;<a href=\"http:\/\/www.bh.org.il\/\">www.bh.org.il<\/a>&nbsp;for more information and visiting hours. &nbsp;Note, however, that the core exhibition is undergoing renovation with a full reopening some time in 2019.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>The Yitzhak Rabin Center. \u00a0<\/strong>This museum, which is near the Palmach Museum and not far from Bet Ha-t\u2019fusot, tells the story of the State of Israel and its history as seen through the life of Yitzhak Rabin, the Prime Minister who led the effort to reach peace with the Palestinians until his assassination at the hands of a right-wing, Jewish extremist in Tel Aviv in November 1995. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>That murder seared Israelis, perhaps even more than the Kennedy assassination did Americans, and it no doubt changed the course of history in the region. But the museum does not focus on that terrible crime until the end; it mainly looks at the State\u2019s formation and internal conflicts and divisions through the life of this remarkable man who was at the center of so much of its history. \u00a0It is a must for those interested in modern Israeli history.\u00a0<strong>You need reservations to tour the museum<\/strong>\u2014tel. (03) 745-3358, or e-mail\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:order1@rabincenter.org.il\">order1@rabincenter.org.il<\/a>. \u00a0When I visited this place, I was both fascinated and deeply moved. \u00a0And the memorial to Rabin\u2019s murder at the end, including excerpts from speeches at his funeral by President Clinton, King Hussein, and Rabin\u2019s granddaughter, left me in tears of loss and gratitude for this great man\u2019s life and work.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\" id=\"attachment_200527\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"860\" height=\"573\" src=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/zmanmekomi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/sunset-3538449_1280-e1549576563304.jpg?resize=860%2C573&amp;ssl=1\" alt=\"Tel Aviv\" class=\"wp-image-200527\"\/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Tel Aviv<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>If you are interested in Zionist history and the birth of the State of Israel, stop in\u00a0<strong>Ben-Gurion House<\/strong>\u00a0at 17 Ben-Gurion Boulevard, tel. (03) 511-1010. \u00a0This was the home of\u00a0<strong>David and Paula Ben-Gurion<\/strong>\u00a0when he became Israel\u2019s first prime minister. \u00a0This simple house contains more than 20,000 books in five languages, a testament to the breadth of this man\u2019s mind. \u00a0Also check out\u00a0<strong>Independence Hall<\/strong>\u00a0at 16 Rothschild Boulevard, tel. (03) 517-3942;\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/eng.ihi.org.il\/\">http:\/\/eng.ihi.org.il<\/a>. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Here, David Ben-Gurion proclaimed the founding of the Jewish State on May 14, 1948 as the armies of five surrounding Arab countries prepared to invade and crush the fledgling nation. \u00a0Some days the museum closes as early as 2:00 p.m., so plan ahead, and\u00a0<strong>reservations are now required<\/strong>, which you can make at\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:reservations@beitatzmaut.org.il\">reservations@beitatzmaut.org.il<\/a>. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You might get in without a reservation on a walk-in basis, as I did on my last visit, but no guarantee. \u00a0Also near Tel Aviv University, you can visit the\u00a0<strong>Palmach Museum<\/strong>, which tells the history of this pre-State militia affiliated with the leftist Labor Zionist movement. \u00a0<strong>Note:<\/strong>\u00a0\u00a0Advance reservations are definitely required here. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tours are in Hebrew, but English-language audio units are provided. \u00a0Like Bet Ha-t\u2019fusot, this is not a museum of artifacts but of visual and auditory recreations of the experiences of one Palmach unit. \u00a0While a tad over-the-top at times, I found it a powerful tribute to this force that played such a critical role in the fight for Israel\u2019s independence\u2014and suffered an enormous casualty rate. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It is located at 10 Lebanon Street, tel. (03) 643-6393. For more, see\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.palmach.org.il\/\">www.palmach.org.il<\/a>; click the icon for English. \u00a0For a look at that period from the right-wing side of the Israeli ideological divide, you can stop at the\u00a0<strong>Etzel Museum<\/strong>\u00a0on the seaside promenade north of Jaffa, 38 King George Street, (03) 528-4001, or the\u00a0<strong>Jabotinsky Institute<\/strong>\u00a0at the same address; tel. (03) 528-6523;\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.jabotinsky.org\/\">www.jabotinsky.org<\/a>. \u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Ramla<\/strong>.\u00a0\u00a0About 30 minutes southeast, in the direction of Ben-Gurion Airport, Ramla is a working-class, Jewish-Arab city very different from Tel Aviv. \u00a0I have gone there twice on a tip from an Israeli friend, as this is quite off the beaten path for tourists. I visited two amazing sites\u2014the\u00a0<strong>Pools of Ramla<\/strong>, an underground water reservoir with amazing arches constructed during the early Muslim period in 789 C.E.\u2014wow.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Nearby is the\u00a0<strong>Great Mosque<\/strong>, and I was startled to recognize Gothic arches\u2014this mosque was converted from the largest Crusader basilica in the Land of Israel, build in the 12th\u00a0Century and converted to a mosque by the great Saladin in 1266. \u00a0Be aware that if you arrive around noon, you will need to work around prayer time, but the hosts are very kind if you show respect for the fact that this is an active house of worship, not a \u201cmuseum.\u201d \u00a0There is more to see here, but it\u2019s fascinating! <strong>Apollonia National Park<\/strong>, not far north of Tel Aviv and its very upscale neighboring city Herzliya. \u00a0After all my visits, I just discovered this place recently, and it\u2019s stunning. \u00a0While the site has been populated and fortified off and on since Phoenician days, the Crusader fortifications from 1101-1265 are the center of the national park today. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The physical setting, with its remarkable ruins perched atop the cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean, is well worth a visit even without the site\u2019s impressive history. There are now accessible paths for people with mobility limitations, a relativity new development at antiquity sites, and Apollonia is a tad off the beaten path, not usually swarmed by tour buses. \u00a0This is one of the parks that does not sell the multi-park passes, however, even though it\u2019s on the card; see p. 31 for an explanation of this problem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tel Aviv is full of wonderful restaurants, a foodie paradise. \u00a0Every request for recommendations for restaurants sets off a major debate among residents and lovers of Tel Aviv on the TripAdvisor forum, and I usually end up with a list of more than 20 options! \u00a0You will eat well here. One of my top choices, for both food and wonderful, seaside ambiance, is\u00a0<strong>Manta Ray<\/strong>\u00a0on the seaside promenade, tel. (03) 517-4773 (photo at right). \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It offers great food (you can order tapas-style dishes to sample several items) with a spectacular view of the sea and the city, and the service is excellent! \u00a0In good weather, the beautiful patio area is open to the sea. It\u2019s been my first meal for my last several trips. Make reservations\u2014this is a popular place. I recently discovered the\u00a0<strong>London Resto-Caf\u00e9<\/strong>, a charming, popular spot on the beach at 111 Herbert Samuel Promenade, in the back of the Sheraton Hotel, tel. (03) 523-5055. \u00a0It offers excellent meat, fish, and seafood dishes, good cocktails, and is very well known for scrumptious desserts. Another fun place near the sea is\u00a0<strong>Caf\u00e9 Metzada<\/strong>\u00a0at 83 Ha-Yarkon Street, (03) 510-3353, next to a McDonald\u2019s. \u00a0I found it a perfect place to eat for a first night in the city, with many tasty light dishes in a very attractively designed place. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>For an upscale and truly outstanding kosher dinner, I recommend the\u00a0<strong>Olive Leaf<\/strong>\u00a0in the sea-side Sheraton. \u00a0It has a great view of the Mediterranean Sea as well, and is located at 115 Ha-Yarkon Street, (03) 521-9300. \u00a0The sunset view over the Mediterranean is very romantic! On my most recent trip, my local friend who really knows here restaurants took me to\u00a0<strong>Fortuna del Mar<\/strong>\u00a0at the Tel Aviv Marina, (03) 523-6730,\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/fortuna-delmar.co.il\/fortuna-del-mar\">http:\/\/fortuna-delmar.co.il\/fortuna-del-mar<\/a>\u00a0(click US flag icon for English). \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This is now my upscale favorite (non-kosher), with great seafood and other dishes right on the beach (and enter from the beach promenade or it\u2019s a tad tricky to find). \u00a0For lunch or dinner,\u00a0<strong>GooCha<\/strong>\u00a0is a reasonably priced seafood restaurant at the corner of Dizengoff and Ben-Gurion, not far from Rabin Square, tel. (03) 522-2886 (non-kosher). \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>GooCha also opened a second location at 14 Ibn Gvirol, tel. (03) 691-1603. In 2016, my husband and I ate at\u00a0<strong>Caf\u00e9 Noir<\/strong>\u00a0at 43 Ahad Ha\u2019am Street, tel. (03) 566-3018. \u00a0It is a good restaurant, off the beaten path for tourists at least, and as far as I could tell, we were the only non-Israelis in the place. \u00a0We had great fish dishes. While touring the Bauhaus area with Jonathan Kohn, we stopped for lunch at a cute place called the\u00a0<strong>Espresso Bar Rothschild<\/strong>, at 8 Rothschild Avenue, (03) 510-8918. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>We liked it a lot, with great salads and sandwiches, and of course coffee! \u00a0On my most recent visit, while walking in the same area, I stumbled on the\u00a0<strong>Kiosk<\/strong>, one of three remaining, original wooden kiosks left in Tel Aviv, built in 1920. \u00a0I loved this little place\u2014great for salad or a delicious street lunch. 3 Lilianblum Street in Neve Tzedek, (03) 609-8008,\u00a0<a href=\"mailto:Kiosk.Est.1920@gmail.com\">Kiosk.Est.1920@gmail.com<\/a>. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>You might also check out the renovated\u00a0<strong>Old Port<\/strong>\u00a0area north of the Hilton Hotel and Independence Park on Ha-Yarkon. \u00a0If you are staying in the more northern beachfront hotels, this makes a delightful walk along the beach promenade and the sea walls and great people watching, especially on a Saturday evening as families come out after Shabbat\u2014religious and secular, Jews and Arabs, a microcosm of Israeli life. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I started my last trip with that walk just hours after my arrival in the country, and it\u2019s a new tradition. Through\u00a0<strong>Jonathan Kohn<\/strong>, I found a new favorite restaurant in that area, the\u00a0<strong>Kitchen Market<\/strong>, Farmer\u2019s Market, Ha-Anger Street 12, (03) 544-6669;\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.kitchen-market.co.il\/\">www.kitchen-market.co.il<\/a>. \u00a0It is a delightful place, with good and attentive service, and excellent fish, seafood, and meat dishes (non-kosher). \u00a0For an earthy, everyday-Israel fish restaurant, check out\u00a0<strong>Benny the Fisherman (Beni ha-Dayag)<\/strong>; tel. (03) 544-0518. \u00a0This place has a great, informal atmosphere and is a particularly great place to watch Tel Aviv life go by. \u00a0Another nice place is\u00a0<strong>Yulia\u2019s<\/strong>, tel. (03) 546-9777. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>We just had dessert there, but it was heavenly, and the dinner menu looked great as well. \u00a0At the far north end of the port complex, almost to the Yarkon River, there is an informal place called\u00a0the\u00a0<strong>Derby Bar Port<\/strong>. \u00a0This a great place, particularly for families with children or larger groups, and the fish was excellent. \u00a0See\u00a0www.derbybarport.co.il\/, tel. (03) 624-6050. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>In Jaffa<\/strong>, a great place is\u00a0<strong>Haj Kahil<\/strong>, a Middle Eastern restaurant at 18 Raziel on the Clock Tower Square at the entrance to Jaffa, tel. (057) 942-8347;\u00a0www.hajkahil.rest-e.co.il. \u00a0The lamb shoulder with rice dish was one of the best I have ever enjoyed in Israel, and with great service! \u00a0This place is Arab-owned and not kosher. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I can also recommend the\u00a0<strong>Abu Nasser-Hinnawi<\/strong>\u00a0meat and seafood restaurant at 130 Kedem Street in south Jaffa near the Peres Peace Center; tel. (03) 507-5539 or (03) 506-7132. \u00a0It is owned by an old and prominent Christian Arab family and serves wonderful dishes with a Middle-Eastern flavor. The fish was to die for, and the meat dishes are delicious as well. \u00a0Also not kosher, however. If you want to experience some classic and absolutely delicious Libyan-Jewish food, try\u00a0<strong>Dr. Shakshuka<\/strong>, a kosher restaurant at 3 Bet Eshel, Jaffa, tel. (03) 513-6560,\u00a0http:\/\/drshaksuka.rest-e.co.il. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Bring your appetite and be sure to try the shakshuka for which it is named\u2014a signature North African dish featuring eggs cooked in a tomato sauce\u2014yum! \u00a0This is one of my favorite, Israeli classics (you might see it on your breakfast buffet at the hotel as well\u2014give it a try). Another great choice is a lovely, family-owned restaurant called\u00a0<strong>Pu\u2019ah<\/strong>, 8 Rabbi Yohanan Street, tel. (03) 681-1140. \u00a0Once a small place, it has now expanded to fill the open-air street, and at night it is such a cool place to eat with wonderful food! \u00a0On my most recent trip, local friends introduced me to\u00a0<strong>Ozna<\/strong>, a terrific Turkish restaurant that we thoroughly enjoyed; 3 Rabbi Hanina Street in Jaffa, (03) 648-3030,\u00a0www.ozna.co.il. \u00a0Another, great lunch stop in Jaffa is\u00a0<strong>Abulafia<\/strong>, 4 Yeffet Street, tel. (052) 238-4306\u2014great hummus, falafel, shwarma, and similar delights from the Middle East. \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Moving just outside Jaffa, there are many fun restaurants in the\u00a0<strong>Carmel Market<\/strong>, and on my last trip\u00a0we stopped in a delightful little spot called\u00a0<strong>Shukshuka<\/strong>, a pun on the aforementioned shakshuka and the word \u201cshuk\u201d (market). \u00a0It\u2019s at 41 Simtat Ha-Carmel. Nothing fancy; you sit at the counter, but my friend and I both loved it! \u00a0Apparently, they are famous for their shakshuka, but it was lunch and we had stuffed grape leaves in a delicious yogurt and dill sauce along with fished stuffed \u201ccigars\u201d\u2014fish in an outer pastry layer that is then fried. \u00a0I had a little arak (anise liqueur) in pomegranate juice with it as well, and man, was that a good lunch!\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>As mentioned above, not to be outdone by that young, upstart Tel Aviv, Jaffa has now renovated its old port area, and the Jaffa Port is now one of the trendy, up-and-coming areas of this always evolving metropolis. &nbsp;There are great seafood restaurants such as&nbsp;<strong>The Old Man and the Sea (Ha-Zaken v\u2019ha-Yam)<\/strong>, tel. (053) 809-4346.<a href=\"http:\/\/voice.google.com\/calls?a=nc,%2B10538094346\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><\/a>&nbsp;&nbsp;This place is open every day, including Shabbat\u2014obviously not kosher. &nbsp;There are other, fun places in this quite popular complex\u2014the restaurant and bar scene in Tel Aviv is booming and constantly in flux!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>\u00a92004-2019 Douglas E. Duckett, All rights reserved.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>By Douglas E. Duckett The \u201cWhite City\u201d and&nbsp;The Heart of Modern IsraelSuggested Time: &nbsp;3 nights Tel Aviv is Israel\u2019s New York (one of its nicknames is \u201cthe Big Orange\u201d) and at first glance can seem like any other big city on the sea. \u00a0But it is the heart of modern Israel, \u201cthe capital of Mediterranean [&#8230;]\n","protected":false},"author":586,"featured_media":200524,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[36483],"tags":[37388],"class_list":["post-200523","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-israel","tag-tel-aviv-2"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>A Personal Travel Guide To Israel: Tel Aviv &#8211; Zman Online Magazine<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/zmanmekomi.com\/en\/a-personal-travel-guide-to-israel-tel-aviv\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"A Personal Travel Guide To Israel: Tel Aviv &#8211; Zman Online Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"By Douglas E. Duckett The \u201cWhite City\u201d and&nbsp;The Heart of Modern IsraelSuggested Time: &nbsp;3 nights Tel Aviv is Israel\u2019s New York (one of its nicknames is \u201cthe Big Orange\u201d) and at first glance can seem like any other big city on the sea. \u00a0But it is the heart of modern Israel, \u201cthe capital of Mediterranean [...]\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/zmanmekomi.com\/en\/a-personal-travel-guide-to-israel-tel-aviv\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Zman Online Magazine\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/mekomimag\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2019-02-07T21:50:54+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2023-09-19T15:49:00+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/zmanmekomi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/02\/view-2301566_1280-e1549576183577.jpg?fit=1100%2C619&ssl=1\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1100\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"619\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Douglas E. 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